Shopsmith Forums

Life is full of decisions and now you have to make some that involve your Shopsmith. Yes, I have heard the various apparently contradictory statements that you method here. Experts hardly ever totally agree with one another.

What to do?

1. Don't use silicon ANYWHERE that it is likely to come in contact with wood that ultimately will be finished! Since I know of nowhere that says I must use silicon, the decision is made: NO silicon in my shop.

2. Don't forget to buff the Johnson Paste Wax after you apply it! I use Johnsons Paste Wax on all external metal surfaces of my Shopsmith. Sincer I can't buff it off if I put it on the speed control, I use something else there.

3. I don't want a waxey buildup of sawdust in the speed control or the pork chop (quadrant) so I use Topcote there. This is new for me. Until recently I used a light oil.

4. I have always vacuumed the heavy stuff and then blown out the rest. I'll continue to do that. Now, with the end pan off the headstock, I turn if on, AFTER VACUUMING, and blow out the inside of the headstock. Anytime I drop the motor, which is very, very seldom - I blow out the motor.

5. No one has told me that I must not clean and lubricate more often than is recommended, so I do. I probably do the entire routine five or six times a year. I do this, in part because I operate in an open air shop in sandy, windy Arizona.

6. What weight oil to use is still a decision I haven't made. When I bought my machine, many, many years ago, I bought two "Shopsmith Oiters". They are cans that look almost like the "Singer Sewing Oiler" that my wife has. I have yet to run out so I use what Shopsmith provided back in the early eighties. It does NOT feel like 30w. If I had to make the decision, it'll be 10w, non-detergent.

Whatever you do, keep it clean and lubricated. In the meantime, I'm anxious to see what the Rick and Nick Shows advocate.

SWMBO has made it clear that it will not be Singer Sewing Machine Oil.

Hi Dusty,

I hope that you did not take my pokin' a little fun as serious questions of what to do. I was just all of a sudden overwhelmed with the desire to point out some inconsistencies.

Life is full of decisions and now you have to make some that involve your Shopsmith. Yes, I have heard the various apparently contradictory statements that you method here. Experts hardly ever totally agree with one another.

I am just having a little fun here:rolleyes: : I already do what I do, but as I learn something new, I weigh it against what I already do and may or may not change my ways.

What to do?

1. Don't use silicon ANYWHERE that it is likely to come in contact with wood that ultimately will be finished! Since I know of nowhere that says I must use silicon, the decision is made: NO silicon in my shop.

I never have and never will. I used to use it (silicon) to lubricate some of my gutter machine parts, but I prefer oil for that too!

2. Don't forget to buff the Johnson Paste Wax after you apply it! I use Johnsons Paste Wax on all external metal surfaces of my Shopsmith. Sincer I can't buff it off if I put it on the speed control, I use something else there.

I have always used Johnsons Paste Wax and have not been shown any info to want me to change.

3. I don't want a waxey buildup of sawdust in the speed control or the pork chop (quadrant) so I use Topcote there. This is new for me. Until recently I used a light oil.

I am going to give the bees wax a try and see how that goes. It makes sense to me, but I will check it/clean it periodically. I can always try TopCote for that if I don't like the bees wax:) .

4. I have always vacuumed the heavy stuff and then blown out the rest. I'll continue to do that. Now, with the end pan off the headstock, I turn if on, AFTER VACUUMING, and blow out the inside of the headstock. Anytime I drop the motor, which is very, very seldom - I blow out the motor.

I will continue to blow out the headstock with the motor running (and plugged in:D ). I do not use a continuous blast of air, rather short little blasts. My headstock has never gotten so full as to cause a problem, before I blow it out.

5. No one has told me that I must not clean and lubricate more often than is recommended, so I do. I probably do the entire routine five or six times a year. I do this, in part because I operate in an open air shop in sandy, windy Arizona.

I agree: Clean as necessary; the guidelines help people that are unsure of when necessary is.

6. What weight oil to use is still a decision I haven't made. When I bought my machine, many, many years ago, I bought two "Shopsmith Oiters". They are cans that look almost like the "Singer Sewing Oiler" that my wife has. I have yet to run out so I use what Shopsmith provided back in the early eighties. It does NOT feel like 30w. If I had to make the decision, it'll be 10w, non-detergent.

When I bought my machine, I thoroughly read the owners manual and promptly went to the auto parts store and purchased a quart of non-detergent 30w oil. I have not yet run out of that quart. After taking my first Rick Davis TA class, I purchased the Help Kit, and now use whatever is in the pocket oiler. I figure it doesn't really matter: Whatever they put in there works.

Yes, I thought you was serious. Your observations (as listed) are valid and they provoke obvious questions.

However, it is perfectly OK in my mind to ask the questions and to have some fun with it.

I am sure that Rick and Nick will clear up the points that have been made.

The pocket oiler is great. The long needle makes getting to the holes for oiling the sheaves very easy.

Lubricating the speed control. Several years ago in Hands On Smithy recommended using paraffin to lubricate the teeth. I have lightly rubbed a bar of paraffin against the teeth and it works but I may switch to Top Cote when I find a nozzle and straw that fits onto the Top Cote can.

There's no problem with silicon in my shop. I use it on the band saw rubber tires. I use it on any rubber surface. Haven't used it inside of the headstock, but can't see a problem here. I don't know of any project I have ever made when project parts have gotten into the headstock:rolleyes: . Also - don't know of any project pieces that have crept inside the band saw. If some very minute droplets of silicone get on the band saw blade - so what! All edges of bandsawn pieces are sanded or planed which would put any contaminated wood into the dust collector.

For those who are afraid of silicon because they think gremlins will sneak a drop out of the can and deposit it on a valuable piece of wood about to be finished - then they are correct in keeping it out of their shop.

Think about it! The oil you use is subject to the same gremlins:eek: ! Maybe you shouldn't allow oil into your shop.

Wonder how 'top coat' reacts with a wood finish? Or for that matter - beeswax and paraffin and anything else that has been mentioned here. I do know that paste wax when applied to wood is not good for a finish. My goodness! If we want something to worry about - What's to keep paste wax from getting on wood about to be finished?:eek:

Touche', Chuck: I'm still not using it:p

I thought about this and you are right. You use red wheel bearing grease, some use silicon, some bees wax, others TopCote. We all use oil on the sheaves. All of these lubricants can have a detrimental effect on wood that has a finish in its future. Left exposed long enough to some of them, it becomes quite difficult to sand off the affected area without ruining the piece. But, it would be nearly a miracle to expose wood workpieces to the inside of the headstock.

That is not why I won't use silicon. I have used silicon (not on my Mark V) and although it is more then adequate as a lubricant, my own personal experience is that it has a life span much shorter then oil. I prefer oil to silicon and see no point to having the silicon in my shop.

As to the "porkchop", I will still be using the bees wax, unless it creates a problem.

What about moly-graphite grease on the porkchop? As far as I can tell, *nuthin'* will stick to the stuff.

solicitr wrote:What about moly-graphite grease on the porkchop? As far as I can tell, *nuthin'* will stick to the stuff.

Why not? Unless someone can point out why a particular lubricant should not be used, e.g., sawdust sticks to it, IMHO any lubricant can be used at this location: The friction is so low, i.e., there is no real prolonged activity between the moving parts, that it should not really matter what is used.