Shopsmith Forums

pennview wrote:It's just a matter of versatility. I always keep thin CA around for repairing defects, etc., in wood, so that's why I'd use it. But if I wanted to secure something with difficult access, I'd likely use loctite or another thread locker.

I would love to keep CA around but mine always seems to go bad. How do you store yours?

I don't have much trouble keeping the thin CA. I just keep it on the shelf in the shop, but the thicker stuff doesn't seem to keep very well. I've recently come across the Mercury brand of CA and I think I'll give it a try next time around. Their adhesives are made in Georgia and they offer an unconditional guarantee regardless of when you bought the stuff.

Good thread. Nice project and some good tips re CA etc.

Coincidentally yesterday's version of the Woodsmith Shop TV show had another tip on leveling things. (I don't remember what it was they were leveling, but the idea is almost universal.) For those who can say "my inserts Rock!" this is probably irrelevant.

For our flat inserts it would go like this: clean the rim upon which the insert sits, then at those points where you'd like to have "shims" rub that surface with parafin (wax). Also carefully clean the underside of the insert to be "adjusted".
Then blob a blob of hot melt glue on each point on the rim to shim. A healthy blob. Carefully set the insert down into place on the still hot blobs (no, not a name for an old rock group) and gently lower a straight-edge across it. In mere seconds the glue will cool and solidify to the extent needed, and since the rim was waxed the blobs will remain stuck to the insert only.
So, the insert is permanently shimmed, but blobs can be easily removed if necessary for whatever reason. This can be done with coined inserts as well, I suppose, making tightening of the forward screw more automatic.

Not as elegant as the set screws, fer sher, but a quicker fixer.

I keep my CA glue In the spare (beer) refrigerator in the garage. CA glue is exothermic so it releases heat when it is curing. Remove the heat and it lasts a lot longer.
Bill V

I just daub 4 or 6 daubs of hot melt glue on plywood ZCIs. Smash it down. When it cools, it's perfectly level and never needs adusting.

I make my own inserts and I cut them to be the correct thickness.

Has anyone ever tried using Corian to make inserts ? I have some scraps in the shop I use for various jig parts and it might actually make a good ZCI. Definitely tappable for the leveling screws. I will add that to my list of protects.
Paul