Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:Oh I would have to cut it down even smaller to fit my M5 table(a tad less for the 10E table).

I never realized the 10E table was wider(< 1") than the Mark 5. Is is 2" shallower though.

You got me seriously considering making a jig myself. I need to create box joints in the corners of several shallow(< 1") drawers(a long term project). I would add a square slider(removable) on the blade side of the pin(~1/8") to hold the parts vertical(and against the pin from afar).

Keep up the good thinking!!!

A slider that is square to the base just might be a great addition. I have not assembled parts yet so I can still router a groove in the back board. I'll give this some thought. Thanks for the feedback.

I recently discovered the website ibuildit.ca. One of his projects Advanced Box Joint Jig caught my interest, a different take on cutting box joints on a table saw.

I spent a little bit of time trying to figure how the dado width and dado position adjustments will be made. As recommended, I will use 32 tpi screws so as to achieve fine adjustment. Now how to assemble all of this and with what hardware.

[ATTACH]19767[/ATTACH]

I came up with this:

[ATTACH]19768[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19769[/ATTACH]

I need to replace the screws with a user friendly head (knob) but I'll have to shop for those. These flat head screws will do for now. The threaded inserts will be epoxied into their respective holes.

All engines STOP. Full speed REVERSE.

This has turned out to be a disaster; a self made disaster. I believe the design is solid but only if the builder follows the plans and makes no changes on the fly.

I incorporated a couple of "improvements" and brought the entire project to a halt. As soon as I rethink this, I'll be back with a "progress report".

[quote="dusty"]All engines STOP. Full speed REVERSE.

This has turned out to be a disaster]

What enhancements created the disaster?

FWIW, I think I would stack the two slides vertically so they could move independently including a separate 'clamp' for each.

I be thinking all-thread also!;)

[quote="JPG40504"]I be thinking all-thread also!]

I recut some pieces thinking I had made an error in the original dimensions. The error was in the rethinking.

Thanks for the comments. I'll give them consideration. I am curious though. How would all-thread be any different than the long screws?

If I had a way to machine the fingers while at the same time threading them in material that was thick enough while at the same time thin enough, I would use two all-thread rods.

I suspect that is basically what Incra has done.

[quote="JPG40504"]I be thinking all-thread also!]
OKAY, you got me to thinking about this. It is terribly unfair of you to plant a seed like that when I am trying to close out another pipe dream.

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Threaded rod permanently attached to "the fingers" and positioned by the square tubes. Knobs missing. I haven't learned how to create knobs yet. I'm thinking JBWeld to attach the fingers to the rods along with nuts embedded in each end of the square tubes with JBWeld.

What will keep the fingers from rotating with the rod?

heathicus wrote:What will keep the fingers from rotating with the rod?

Nothing! That's a concept error on my part.

To solve that, I'll have to have something at the other ends of the rods that positions them without rotating them.

Another, quicker solution would be to buy the Incra Jig.

Thanks for the feed back.

My first thoughts about a solution.

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The cylinder is threaded on the inside (think pipe nipple) and the threaded rod is threaded through it. The two cubes capture the cylinder so that it does not move the length of the rod. When it is turned, the rod moves back and forth inside of it.