Shopsmith Forums

Could they share a distributer that would be willing to sell them individually?

I have ordered both the #50 and #74 oil seals from:
URL: http://www.baumhydraulics.com
SKU Product Item price
00842194 314267N $4.79 NAT SEAL .625 X 1.000 X .125 TYPE 1 #50

00842356 340847 $2.94 NAT SEAL .500 X .750 X .125 TYPE 1 #74

You may want to wait until I receive them and make sure they fit. I will post the results.

etc92guy wrote:Could they share a distributer that would be willing to sell them individually?

Bill,

I would like to see if 74 seal works/fits...I want to try that before rebuilding.

I look forward to your posted results.

Dave

Bill--is there another oil seal on the inside of the interior bronze bushing as well? Meaning--is there a seal on either side of each bushing? I disassembled my unit and found one on the inside but no seal on the outside at all???

Thanks...Dave

billmayo wrote:I have ordered both the #50 and #74 oil seals from:
URL: http://www.baumhydraulics.com
SKU Product Item price
00842194 314267N $4.79 NAT SEAL .625 X 1.000 X .125 TYPE 1 #50

00842356 340847 $2.94 NAT SEAL .500 X .750 X .125 TYPE 1 #74

You may want to wait until I receive them and make sure they fit. I will post the results.

The bushings needs the oil lubication. Since the bushing and oil seal have the same OD, it sounds like someone put the seal on the inside vs the outside. The couple jigsaws I disassemblied had the oil seals on the outside. Also, the parts list only shows the 2 oil seals located even with the outsides of the housing.

davem1066 wrote:Bill--is there another oil seal on the inside of the interior bronze bushing as well? Meaning--is there a seal on either side of each bushing? I disassembled my unit and found one on the inside but no seal on the outside at all???

Thanks...Dave

Bill,

I noticed what appeared to be an oil seal on the inside shaft is actually a brass bushing to keep the rocker from hitting the inside of the housing. If I removed it and put it on the outside, the rocker would bang into the housing. So that must not be an oil seal but a legitimate bushing or better call it a 'spacer'.

I also ordered an oil seal to see if that will be a stop gap for me to slow down the oil seepage and get me through the season. I'll report back my results as well.

Dave

Good news, the Timken oil seals fit perfectly. The 2 oil seals were installed and no leaks. I wish I could say the same for my attempts at making housing gaskets. I will keep trying different gasket materials until I find one that does not leak. I will post my gasket making results when successful.

billmayo wrote:I have ordered both the #50 and #74 oil seals from:
URL: http://www.baumhydraulics.com
SKU Product Item price
00842194 314267N $4.79 NAT SEAL .625 X 1.000 X .125 TYPE 1 #50

00842356 340847 $2.94 NAT SEAL .500 X .750 X .125 TYPE 1 #74

You may want to wait until I receive them and make sure they fit. I will post the results.

Dear Bill et. al.,

Having done some amount of automotive work over the years I have found gasket making to be fairly easy. One product I have used with a great deal of success is Permatex high-temp RTV silicone gasket maker 26B. One drawback is the ooze inside. If allowed to cure 24hrs. before adding oil it will generally stay in place. I doubt if small pieces floating in the jigsaw crankcase would be a problem.

If one feels that a real gasket is necessary then purchasing a suitable sheet at ones local auto supply house will work. Coating the cover with something (ink, blue marker etc.) that will come off on the gasket and then cutting carefully will render a new gasket. I have even used cereal box cardboard with some success.

I will be ordering up the seals today so thanks for the information Bill.

Bob Coder
Willcox, AZ

Thanks for the response. I found I could not use the silicone gasket maker solution as there is a vent hole that must be open really close to the edge of the housing gasket surface and a screw. I tried several Permatex sealing solutions with the original gaskets but it appears the oil actually seeps through the original gasket material. It is just a trace of oil showing after 24 hours. All 5 jig saws I currently have has this oil leakage.

I purchased a sheet of cork and a sheet of rubber gasket material to try next. I still have all my gasket making tools and punches from my car days so it just finding time to play with them. I have 2 original gaskets being shipped from Shopsmith but need to make more gaskets.

rcoder wrote:Dear Bill et. al.,

Having done some amount of automotive work over the years I have found gasket making to be fairly easy. One product I have used with a great deal of success is Permatex high-temp RTV silicone gasket maker 26B. One drawback is the ooze inside. If allowed to cure 24hrs. before adding oil it will generally stay in place. I doubt if small pieces floating in the jigsaw crankcase would be a problem.

If one feels that a real gasket is necessary then purchasing a suitable sheet at ones local auto supply house will work. Coating the cover with something (ink, blue marker etc.) that will come off on the gasket and then cutting carefully will render a new gasket. I have even used cereal box cardboard with some success.

I will be ordering up the seals today so thanks for the information Bill.

Bob Coder
Willcox, AZ

Bill,

Have you had any luck replacing the expansion plug #80 with something that doesn't ooze oil.

Bob Coder