Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:A full view(s) of this would be 'nice'!:rolleyes:

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JPG, that leg is attached to my newly restored 10ER
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Which I'm using as a dedicated drill press.
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The 10ER work table clamping 'screws' are supposed to be brass threads with a knob. The brass prevents scoring the table support tubes.

fredsheldon wrote:JPG, that leg is attached to my newly restored 10ER
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Which I'm using as a dedicated drill press.
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Except when being used as a sanding station.

JPG40504 wrote:The 10ER work table clamping 'screws' are supposed to be brass threads with a knob. The brass prevents scoring the table support tubes.

As previously pointed out by some sharp eyes in the past, I have since moved the knob screws to their correct position on the table mount.

fredsheldon wrote:As previously pointed out by some sharp eyes in the past, I have since moved the knob screws to their correct position on the table mount.

Whoops!:o Tain't MY fault!:rolleyes: That is an older pix.

Oh well that was a different thread(?).

Did not want any third parties seeing that pix to think the set screws are SOP!:)

The Inmates at the Walls Prison Unit across from where I work cut down a tree today which solved my problem of where I was going to get some green wood for my next project.

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Could only fit 4 in my Prius today, will get the rest tomorrow if somebody else doesn't beat me to them. I painted the ends to prevent cracking. I'm so new at this I don't even know what kind of wood this is. I assume its oak. They are 12" in diameter and 2 feet long.

Nice haul there, Fred. Keeping the ends from checking even if sealed can be a challenge. Unless you plant to turn them immediately, you may wish to cut the billets lengthwise through the pith which will improve your chances of preventing checking. If you're going to use them all for turning, you'll end up cutting them that way eventually anyway.

pennview wrote:Nice haul there, Fred. Keeping the ends from checking even if sealed can be a challenge. Unless you plant to turn them immediately, you may wish to cut the billets lengthwise through the pith which will improve your chances of preventing checking. If you're going to use them all for turning, you'll end up cutting them that way eventually anyway.

Art, I was planning on cutting them in half lengthwise anyway so you are suggesting I do that sooner rather than later? Do I need to seal the newly exposed wood or just the ends?
Fred

After cutting in half, adding sealer (latex paint or wood glue works too) an inch or two on that flat surface nearest the ends should be sufficient, in addition to what you've already put on the ends. Just keep them in a cool spot away from the sun, but do keep an eye on them and add more sealer should you notice any checks starting to develop. Waiting for them to dry will take what seems like forever so google "turning green bowls" for tons of information on the subject. Here's a starter -- http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/pro ... -bowl.aspx

Don't just cut in half. Remove the pith denoted buy the square in the middle.

I use the remaining planks as short boards or cut them up for pen blanks. The pith winds up in the burn box.

The long vertical lines are where the chainsaw cuts. That's right 2 cuts to remove the pith. This will greatly reduce checking. One the pit is planked out. I use the bandsaw to further remove the pith.

Only the end grain needs to be sealed. but the freshly exposed interior can be sealed as well, it will just take longer to dry out.

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