Using a Router as a Jointer

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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

Dusty depending on how long the piece is that you are trying to joint it might be easier to run the router against a straight edge rather than contending with offsets.

Just place a board 1/32 of an inch deeper than the bit is from the edge of the router base and run the router against the board and joint your edge.

I often do this when I need to joint different shaped things
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Dusty depending on how long the piece is that you are trying to joint it might be easier to run the router against a straight edge rather than contending with offsets.

Just place a board 1/32 of an inch deeper than the bit is from the edge of the router base and run the router against the board and joint your edge.

I often do this when I need to joint different shaped things
Picture please. I am not seeing this.
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

Picture ought to be about the same as for a long handplane or the Sandflee for that matter. With a short depth-of-cut, the inboard and outboard guides can be coplanar.
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Post by jimthej »

Clamp straight edge to workpiece where you want the finisihed edge to be. Use a pattern bit to follow the straight edge and joint the workpiece.
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reible
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Post by reible »

jimthej wrote:Clamp straight edge to workpiece where you want the finisihed edge to be. Use a pattern bit to follow the straight edge and joint the workpiece.

This is about the only way this works. Not jointing but trimming.

If you were to make a off-set jointer type operation who knows how many cuts it might take to get a straight edge since you have a raw edge to start with you will need to remove it high spot by high spot. The raw edge becomes the controlling surface....

Using the straight edge and a pattern bit the control edge is the straight edge and the bit removes material in reference to it.

If you need pictures I can sketch this up for you of the trimming operation and include a simple fence that is a true jointer that uses double sided tape and plastic laminate.

Have to be after 10:00 my time as I have other commitments right now.

Ed
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

OKAY, I get it.

A straight edge and a pattern bit. Yes, this can be used to produce a straight edge.

Not my idea of how to efficiently joint a board; especially not if there are many boards to be jointed. But yes, this would work.
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BuckeyeDennis
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Post by BuckeyeDennis »

nuhobby wrote:Picture ought to be about the same as for a long handplane or the Sandflee for that matter. With a short depth-of-cut, the inboard and outboard guides can be coplanar.
Wouldn't this require many passes to mill down the high areas, until reasonable straightness is achieved?
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Post by jimthej »

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Wouldn't this require many passes to mill down the high areas, until reasonable straightness is achieved?
If less than about 1/8", I doubt it. More than that, I would use a table saw.
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Jointing

Post by jimthej »

Guess what just came into my inbox. From Woodworker's Journal, Jointing On The Tablesaw http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/TablesawTechniques/Jointing/index.html
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

jimthej wrote:Guess what just came into my inbox. From Woodworker's Journal, Jointing On The Tablesaw http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/TablesawTechniques/Jointing/index.html
Now that might be real handy to have. The only problem, from my point of view, is that you always joint off an amount equal to the thickness of whatever blade you used to make the jig.
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