Shopsmith Forums

I just checked mine - no gap as shown in the first post. Mine sits like dusty's.

If you have it apart, one thing I added was an extra nylon washer between the aluminum block and the lock for the angle. Without it I couldn't get the handle to stop wiggling...it had loads of slop. If I managed to get close to eliminating slop it was too tight to move the angle lock. The nylon washer fixed that issue.

BigSky wrote:It appears as though the small aluminum block could be turned 180 degrees and that might produce a slight change in relationships. I can not tell for sure without taking the whole thing apart.

180 top/bottom, or front/rear or both?

i.e. is the bar mounting hole(tapped?) a through hole as is the grip screw hole?

First of two posts responding to photo requests.

As you will see in this first photo, the block under the heel is beveled along the backside to give clearance to the safety grip handle.
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With the bevel oriented to the rear (as the instructions show) and the Safety Grip screwed into it at the heel, the Safety Grip post is way short of reaching the block that attaches to the front of the fence.
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Conversely, if the Safety Grip's post is screwed into the block on the fence, there is misalignment of the hole in the block that the screw must pass through in the heel of the Safety Grip.
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I therefore rotated the block under the heal 180 degrees (JPG: it cannot be flipped because it is held in place with a cap screw that goes though it into the miter bar and the relief hole in the top of the block is larger than the head of the cap screw).
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With the block rotated 180 degrees (which is incorrect per the instructions), the front of the block overhangs the protractor but this is not a problem because the protractor indicator is to the left of the handle and can still be used. Therefore, I attempted to attach the Safety Grip. The hole almost lines up.
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Having reached the maximum attachment size, this post is continued below.

Continuing from the prior post, here is a close up showing the misalignment:
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I believe the misalignment is caused because with the bevel on the block under the heel now facing forward, the square back of the block causes interference with the Safety Grip and prevents it from properly locating.

My conclusion is that either the screw hole was located in the wrong place on the heel block or after the screw hole was drilled in the heel block, someone beveled the wrong side.

I could bevel this myself, although the bevel may cut into the top hole. But as it is new, I think I will ask Shopsmith to take care of it.

algale wrote:Continuing from the prior post, here is a close up showing the misalignment:
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I believe the misalignment is caused because with the bevel on the block under the heel now facing forward, the square back of the block causes interference with the Safety Grip and prevents it from properly locating.

My conclusion is that either the screw hole was located in the wrong place on the heel block or after the screw hole was drilled in the heel block, someone beveled the wrong side.

I could bevel this myself, although the bevel may cut into the top hole. But as it is new, I think I will ask Shopsmith to take care of it.

Information needed before you contact Shopsmith.

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dusty wrote:Be patient. I'll give you conclusive evidence as to whether the block is wrong (in time to tell Shopsmith Monday, if necessary).

I will await further confirmation or refutation, as the case may be.

Al,

Mine aligned like this when I did initial installation. I believe I loosened the safety grip pole then inserted the screw and finally tightened the pole. You likely have already tried this but thought I would throw it into the mix.

Jack

algale wrote:I will await further confirmation or refutation, as the case may be.

I would like to see a pix of yours with the rear block mounted beveled side to the rear(as per ss instructions) and the grip post fully screwed into the front block(also properly installed) that shows the rear block hole misalignment. How much does the grip move(an arc pivoting from the top of the post.

Like Big Sky already stated, the sequence is crucial.

After taking mine apart for this last photo shoot, I had some difficulty getting it back together. Sequence did in fact become crucial.

I finally got it back together as follows: Loosen the two screws that hold the aluminum block to the fence (loosen, do not remove). Position the handle assembly and set the threaded post in the hole where it will finally reside. Insert the machine screw into the handle and through the block. Start the threaded post into place but do not tighten. Tighten the handle screw. Tighten the two screws that secure the aluminum block to the fence. Finish screwing in the post.

JPG40504 wrote:I would like to see a pix of yours with the rear block mounted beveled side to the rear(as per ss instructions) and the grip post fully screwed into the front block(also properly installed) that shows the rear block hole misalignment. How much does the grip move(an arc pivoting from the top of the post.

Like Big Sky already stated, the sequence is crucial.

Attached as requested. Grip post was fully seated for this photo.
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There's no grip movement in a downward direction. A little up. All in all, quite tight, really.