Shopsmith Forums

SDSSmith wrote:I just looked at the original picture. The slit is too long, the inner tube should be solid adjacent to where the set screw makes contact. It is no wonder it squeezes the tube onto the blade with little pressure applied.

Oh, contraire! My jigsaw appears to be exactly the same vintage as ertigas', and it has the same long split in the tube. I bought it from the original owner in excellent condition, with manual, and I am 99.99% sure that the split tube has not been modified.

All the info in this thread on in-lining photos has been extremely helpful to me -- thanks, guys -- I struggled with that on a recent post. But because of the resolution limitation here (and also because I still haven't bothered reinstall my PC photo editing software after a nasty disk crash, and am too lazy to send the photos back and forth to my iPad for editing), I'm going to use links to hi-res photos here instead.

First, here's a photo of my jigsaw, on a power stand. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17737602/IMG_9004.jpg It certainly appears to be the same vintage as the subject in question. I did add the black-painted PVC dust-collection tube -- that works great.

Next, here's a closeup of the upper blade guide, backup tube, and split tube, adjusted and ready to go. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17737602/IMG_9005.jpg

Now, here's a closeup of the split tube, taken from an angle similar to ertigas' photo. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17737602/IMG_9002.jpg The length of the split appears to be the same.

Here's a closeup side view of the split tube. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17737602/IMG_9003.jpg On this vintage jigsaw, at least, the split clearly extends back past split-tube setscrew.
And finally, here's a photo of the instructions for adjusting the upper guide tube, split tube, etc. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17737602/Split ... stment.jpg I do it just as the instructions say, and it works beautifully.

Overall, the jigsaw adjustments are very similar to the ones on the SS bandsaw. The backup tube serves the same function as the upper backup roller bearing. The split tube serves the same function as the guide blocks, or "cool blocks" if you have them. There is also a lower blade guide on the jigsaw that functions much like the lower backup bearing on the bandsaw.

Orrrrrrrrrrrr

[ATTACH]20358[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20359[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20360[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20361[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]20362[/ATTACH]

Thanks for the self explanatory photos. Now here are my conclusions.

1) My inner tube seems not to be straight and considering the crack on the cast it may have been forced by the previous owner.

2) The tube is the original size and has not been modified, other than forced beyond its elasticity limits (arguable but seems logical to me)

3) I can replace it with a home made stainless steel part, at least for the fun of it : )

I m going to be in Pastaland (Italy) for s couple of weeks but upon my return will order some metal and try to make a new part.

I'll have to deal with the crack in the support sooner or later although Shopsmith lists that part as available and I already ordered one. I want to experiment with aluminum brazing so this could be the chance and the possibility to fix the cracked part and a few others I have accumulated.

Thanks again. I'll be reading the group while I am away but unfortunately I can't carry my SS babies with me...!

Boy, did this thread end up helping me out! A few months ago I put a very old Magna jigsaw back into service (after acquiring a couple of support tubes). I read in the manual how the front set screw was to secure the split tube and the rear set screw secured the backup tube, but I found that when I secured either set screw the split tube would be secured but the back up tube, while tight was still able to be moved. I didn't think much of it.

After reading this thread I had a hunch and pulled both the front and rear set screws. Yup, BOTH set screws were of the half dog variety! I replaced the rear half-dog set screw with a flat end set screw and now everything works like a charm. Don't know if the two half dog set screws was a mix up from the PO (who had two jig saws) or whether it came like that from Magna/Shopsmith. Regardless, it is now fixed thanks to the Forum.

Next maintenance/fix on this is a new seal for the oil reservoir. After using it, the seal always is slightly wet with oil (I checked the pressure relief hole, and it is clear, so I think the seal is just old and no longer good).

Overall, I am impressed with the flexibility of this tool. I've mounted scroll saw blades and cut all variety of wood and even stuck a hack saw blade in it and cut some EMT (slowly). It just seems to do what it is supposed to do. I understand it will also take files. Gotta get some of those.

Al

I've used my jigsaw for filing. It works well -- just the ticket for some tasks.

Finding files is a challenge. I spent some time Googling for them, and it appears that the generic term for such files is "Parallel Machine Files". One was included with my jigsaw, and it was of the 3-1/4" long variety. I believe that the jigsaw will accept either 1/4" or 1/8" shanks.

Here's a link to a site that still has some 3-1/4" "new old stock" files for sale. http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments ... /2215.html They are down to just the "lozenge" shape now -- they still had three different shapes available when I ordered from them several months ago.

From what I can tell, the 3-1/4" files are quite scarce. The 8" files are more readily available, but I don't know if they can be used with a SS jigsaw.

I found all the original jigsaw housing gaskets leak/seep oil. This is because most of the jigsaws have a plugged vent hole which causes the gasket to leak/seep. It uses 3 oz. of air compressor oil. Just be sure to allow for the vent hole when cutting a new gasket.

I keep a jig saw without the curved arm and upper half available to quickly cut large size items. I have been using 2 blades together from hand held jigsaws to strengthen the blades. I cut many pieces of 2" thick rigid foam board using this trick. I have cut 4X8 sheets of plywood that did not need a smooth edge and did not want to set up the saw function.

billmayo wrote: It uses 3 oz. of air compressor oil. Just be sure to allow for the vent hole when cutting a new gasket.

Good advice, Bill. Other than if oil is lost from leakage, is the oil something that is supposed to be changed out periodically?

algale wrote:Good advice, Bill. Other than if oil is lost from leakage, is the oil something that is supposed to be changed out periodically?

Every 5 to 10 years should OK. My thoughts. Most owners never change the oil. No carbon, crud, dust or dirt should be able get into the oil.