Shopsmith Forums

An electrician partially disassembled the motor and found that all the insulation was "dry rotted" and falling off the wires inside the motor housing and coming out to the other connections. He temporarily taped the wires and it ran fine. He is installing sleeves around these wires and is pretty sure it will solve the problem.

We shall see.

drdale wrote:An electrician partially disassembled the motor and found that all the insulation was "dry rotted" and falling off the wires inside the motor housing and coming out to the other connections. He temporarily taped the wires and it ran fine. He is installing sleeves around these wires and is pretty sure it will solve the problem.

We shall see.

Those motors had rubber insulation. After 50 yrs it breaks down.

Good news!

Keep us posted!

The fellow who looked inside the motor was amazed at the deterioration of the insulation inside. I guess after 50 years it is no surprise. The surprising thing is that it ran so well with all this going on. Does not seem to have done any permanent damage. Running fine now. The picture is the wire replaced. Another was sleeved.

drdale wrote:The fellow who looked inside the motor was amazed at the deterioration of the insulation inside. I guess after 50 years it is no surprise. The surprising thing is that it ran so well with all this going on. Does not seem to have done any permanent damage. Running fine now. The picture is the wire replaced. Another was sleeved.

Yep my goldie has some of those. Definitely on the to do list, but putting it off for more invasave work(refurbing).

I find that I have to replace the internal wiring on any GE motor I rebuild. I always blow the dust and crud out of the windings and recoat the windings with insulating varnish. I find I have to be very careful when clipping the binding threads and straps. The winding wire is very easy to break if you flex it too much. I find most motors can be cleaned and bearings replaced if you have a basic understanding of how the motor is constructed and operates. I have even helped a few members make their motors reversible using Emails and phone calls.

Good on you. You should have a place in Heaven reserved for you.

I found that when I replaced the LOGO cover with a 4" SS round louvered cover, the headstock operated cooler. I have installed a few of the louvered covers on Shopsmiths I sold many years ago and the customers was very happy with the lower heat generated in and by the headstock. I actually disassembled a headstock that I had used the louvered cover after a few years. No sawdust or crud was present at that time. Later, I had the same result using a 4" louvered cover on the end of the motor pan that I had cut a hole for a longer DC motor and switched back to the Shopsmith motor. I believed the extra air flow prevents sawdust and crud from being sucked into the headstock plus it runs a lot cooler overall. I remembered this when I found a left over louvered cover recently. When ever I go searching in my drawers, cabinets and shelfs, I am finding past projects and parts that I was not aware of.

We should have a "Hall of Fame" on this forum for guys like you and archive all your advice and findings.
Bill, you would not be alone in this Shopsmith's Hall of Fame. There are a few others that I would also vote for.
Sorry if I am out of the subject, but thanks Bill Mayo.

camerio wrote:We should have a "Hall of Fame" on this forum for guys like you and archive all your advice and findings.
Bill, you would not be alone in this Shopsmith's Hall of Fame. There are a few others that I would also vote for.
Sorry if I am out of the subject, but thanks Bill Mayo.

I wish we all had a copy of Bill's downloaded 'stuff'(and his 'notes')!;)

Add my thanks as well Bill.

Got my motor back for the VII. Have done a couple of projects with the repaired motor and it works great. The motor repair guy raved about what a great this motor is and said it would be worth it to fix it regardless of what it cost.