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Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 5:22 pm
by saminmn
bugbucknasty1 wrote:Not that hard but way more work than I'd think for something like replacing a belt
First I unscrewed the adjustment knob that screws into the shaft in the drive system. You use it to adjust the blade position.
Then remove the eclip that holes the shaft into the ball bearing. For the backside of the housing holding the gears I removed the cover plate by removing the 4 bolts. This plate has the air tube connected to it.
Then I unscrew the bolt holding the connector rodin the shaft. Then loosen the set screw holding the drive wheel on the shaft.
At this point you can grab the gear and pull it out slightly. Carefully back it out so you can remove the wheel the belt attaches too. Slip the belt back on, slip the wheel back in and shove the shaft back in. Button that back up
Unscrew the strap that holds the motor on the scrolls saw. A lot. Then you can get the belt on it and then tighten it back up
Way more involved that I thought it should be which made me second guess what I was doing. It isn't that bad once I've gone through it
Edit: I started writing yesterday and posted this morning. Looks like my instructions are about the same. Thanks! Yes it is a lot more than stretching the belt over the two pullies
Great news. Good to hear of your success...gives me hope:D
I was surprised when I when I found your post had not been supported, but the scroll saw is something that not many of us have much experience using.
Welcome to the group. Glad your still with us!
Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 6:24 pm
by bugbucknasty1
Thanks. Now I'm excited to start up some projects!
Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:12 pm
by saminmn
bugbucknasty1 wrote:Thanks. Now I'm excited to start up some projects!
I don't know how much Scroll Saw experience you have, but I have no experience and found
this site helpful.
Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:35 pm
by saminmn
The parts arrived last week, but I went fishing.
So just got started on replacing O-Ring belt. I did not get very far. I removed the snap ring, but cannot get the setscrew to budge:(
So, is Liquid Wrench a good penetrating oil? Is there a shelf life for it?
I cannot even get the Allen wrench to seat in the setscrew head. Unlike the drill's setscrew, for which I can see that the Allen wrench is down about 3/16" into the setscrew, this setscrew is down in a hole and with my weak eyes I cannot see that it is into the setscrew at all. By feel, I think I get the hex shape lined up, but I don't think it gets down into the head, even with tapping from a mallet.
I am kind of discouraged. All help appreciated.
Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 9:49 pm
by Mike907
The neighborhood auto repair highly recommends Aero Kroil penetrating oil. I've used it and it seems to work well.
Mike
Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:49 pm
by saminmn
Mike907 wrote:The neighborhood auto repair highly recommends Aero Kroil penetrating oil. I've used it and it seems to work well.
Mike
I'll see if I can get that or what can I get locally. I just thought it out and realized that what I have is over 20 years old.
So updating it is probably a good idea.
grumble
Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 5:47 pm
by saminmn
Despite assurances from CS, my set screw was in fact not 5/32" drive, but 1/8"
I do not know whether PO had replaced. But being down in a hole, I could not see the head well. So I was trying to get 5/32" Allen wrench to work in 1/8" hex hole.
Does anyone know what should have been there? If this is not the correct setscrew, should it be replaced? Would the threads necessarily need to be re-cut?
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 2:45 am
by JPG
saminmn wrote:Despite assurances from CS, my set screw was in fact not 5/32" drive, but 1/8"
I do not know whether PO had replaced. But being down in a hole, I could not see the head well. So I was trying to get 5/32" Allen wrench to work in 1/8" hex hole.
Does anyone know what should have been there? If this is not the correct setscrew, should it be replaced? Would the threads necessarily need to be re-cut?
Question is, what is the thread size of the set screw removed. Unless the screw is very old, it should not fit into a threaded hole that uses a 5/32" hex.
Today's standards use a 1/8" socket in a 1/4" set screw.
Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:38 am
by saminmn
JPG40504 wrote:Question is, what is the thread size of the set screw removed. Unless the screw is very old, it should not fit into a threaded hole that uses a 5/32" hex.
Today's standards use a 1/8" socket in a 1/4" set screw.
Not sure how to measure the setscrew's diameter. From outside of thread to outside of thread I got 0.246". The setscrew on my drill chuck is considerably larger at 0.310" between outsides of thread. So I am guessing I got incorrect info from CS and will put back together with setscrew it started with.
Thanks for input.
Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:02 am
by saminmn
Thought I better post tat I got a chance to finish the belt replacement yesterday. Every thing went OK, but getting the shaft back through the pulley took several tries. Is there a secrete to getting the pulley lined up properly?
Anyway the task is history.
