JPG40504 wrote:I realize the floating spring is quite stiff, but you should be able to manually move the floating sheave in/out on the motor shaft.
DO KNOT let that sheave "snap back" on the motor. Or else you'll have other problems.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
beeg wrote:DO KNOT let that sheave "snap back" on the motor. Or else you'll have other problems.
Yep I left that off the third time. I had already warned about that in post 7 and 8.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
csanders wrote:Thanks guys, I didn't realize the motor pulley must be raised to get the belt in there. I had tried it before, but it hadn't been used in such a long time that it needed to be oiled. Just like you all said. Just a few more questions. I think. Should the bushing be flush with the headstock case? How deep should the belt be inside the motor sheeve. Is there a specific depth? Thanks again.
The bushing should be flush with the outside of the case.
The belt should be in the second groove of the main shaft pulley(some have them in the 3rd groove). That means 1 or 2 are visible on the quill end of the pulley. The important thing is the poly-v belt needs to be running perpendicular to the main shaft and not rubbing against anything. There are two variations of the idler shaft and eccentric and bearings.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
ok, very important question. I separated the motor pulley to wedge the belt inside that pulley. It is not that way with the idler pulley. Should this be the opposite way. That is to say should the idler have the belt wedged in between instead of the motor? I will post a current picture in a minute.
ok here is the pictures. One of the images is in regard to the location of the bushing and it's rotation along the shaft. Does this just depend on the health of the belt. And the other image: Should either pulley be left open and which one. Thanks again.
Your last pix is ok in regards to the eccentric position(typical with poly-v belt wear).
The other pix and your description disturbs me!:eek: It shows the motor pulley and idler pulley in SLOW position of the speed control.
When I say 'set to fast' I am NOT referring to the dial indication. The dial can be grossly mis-adjusted and is the last thing set when reassembling the speed control. In an earlier pix, the control sheave is also not 'open' even though the control arm appears set to 'fast'. The speed control knob is rotated clockwise until the porkchop/control arm/quadrant gear reaches the high speed stop. Turning the knob towards fast(clockwise) can be done even though the motor belt is installed. The control sheave should be open when the stop is reached. If not, we need to determine why not!!!!
Again, the control sheave must be free to slide on the idler shaft.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
ok, I got it all working great last night and oiled up the sheaves and the control dial. Thanks everyone for your help. I realize now that the motor sheave opens up on slow and the idler sheave open up on high speed. Is that right?That is why both were closed because it hadn't been oiled in a long time and forced the belt off the sheave? I think. Also, what is the best thing to use on the bars of the shop smith to help the headstock slide easier? Thanks again.
csanders wrote:ok, I got it all working great last night and oiled up the sheaves and the control dial. Thanks everyone for your help. I realize now that the motor sheave opens up on slow and the idler sheave open up on high speed. Is that right? yep! That is why both were closed because it hadn't been oiled in a long time and forced the belt off the sheave? I think. Me Too Also, what is the best thing to use on the bars of the shop smith to help the headstock slide easier? JPW Thanks again.
WHEW!!!!!
Good News at last.
Sometime understanding come sluggishly.
JPW = Johnson's Paste Wax (Original Formula). HD in the cleaning supplies section. It be a paste floor wax.
BTW Welcome to the funny farm!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thanks. Ya, I just didn't understand that the sheeves separated like that. And I was thinking how does this thing slow down and speed up. Well, at least I can say that I will never forget it. I'll check out the wax. My dad said someone told him to put car wax on it and I said "I better check with you guys on that.