Shopsmith Forums

Having done some more web research on epoxy for filling knots and cracks, I don't feel any more informed. I don't know why this is being so hard for me to wrap my head around. I've seen some suggestions to use clear casting resin as well as fiberglass resin. Anybody have any experience with that?

It's probably better I didn't research mine . I find the 15-min-cure epoxy to be highly versatile and tough, and it's supposedly flexible enough to work well with wood's minor dimensional changes.

The Secretary I made 3-4 years ago was all reclaimed wood from a trash bin. I did sort through and use the tougher (Southern Yellow type, I think) pine on the writing surface, with the softer pine elsewhere. I had to fill some knots with epoxy, and it all is still solid as a rock. My nephew uses this desk all the time:

The overall unit:

[ATTACH]22566[/ATTACH]


Closeup of a filled knot, from the outside:

[ATTACH]22567[/ATTACH]



Inside (writing surface) view of the filled knot:

[ATTACH]22568[/ATTACH]

One concern I had with the selection of epoxy at the hardware store I stopped at (a big, but local place) was they were all tiny little tubes, the cheapest of which was about $5. It just didn't look to be enough for what I need. I wonder if a more economical solution would be available at one of the bigger chains.

Yeah, these days I always buy the 9-oz. (2 parts @ 9oz = 18 oz. total) 15-Minute epoxy off e&bay. Brand BSI / Bob Smith Industries. That will do a great deal of work. If that's not enough, then you'd probably be looking at a "surface pour-on" type of coating job which I've not yet done myself.

Thanks, nuhobby. I placed an order for some of that epoxy.

I have also directed my wife to finally pick up a Kreg jig when she goes shopping later this week (the $40 Jr kit and a couple boxes of screws). My shop made jig was a failure, but only because my drill bits are just too short.

I didn't get anything done today beyond that failed jig experiment for a variety of reasons. Maybe next weekend. I'll have the Kreg jig and epoxy (hopefully) by then.

Heath,

My wife buys lidded storage boxes, about the size of a shoebox, to store crayons and such for grand-kids, stuff from the dollar store. Maybe you could add slides under each side of desktop to hold something like them when not in use. Putting things away is a great habit (that I never developed) to develop in kids and part of that is having a place for everything.

Great project, good luck!

saminmn wrote:Heath,

My wife buys lidded storage boxes, about the size of a shoebox to store crayons and such for grand-kids, stuff from the dollar store. Maybe you could add slides under each side of desktop to hold something like them when not in use. Putting things away is a great habit (that I never developed) to develop in kids and part of that is having a place for everything.

Great project, good luck!

Indeed!

How does one 'put things away' without a 'designated place' to do so?]my[/B] fault nor habits 'responsible for the disarray' - there is no designated place for 99% of it all!:rolleyes:

JPG40504 wrote:
Indeed!

How does one 'put things away' without a 'designated place' to do so?]my[/B] fault nor habits 'responsible for the disarray' - there is no designated place for 99% of it all!:rolleyes:

Me too, grew up in a small house, shared bedroom...not a chance I had a place for everything. Other than clothing, nothing had a place. That's my excuse and I sticking to it.

Never mind that I have had lots of room for many years, things still don't know where I want them to go:eek:

Ed in Tampa wrote:As for a desk top have you looked at the glued up table top boards at the big box stores. When I was building my study I found a tabletop about 5 feet long and 30 inches wide it is made of cut offs that were nailed together and planed/sanded flat. The boards are 1x3 and none of them are longer than 6 inches long. I don't remember the cost but it was cheap cheap cheap. I stained and coated it and it has been in service since 1979.

I must admit that I first dismissed this suggestion thinking, "what's the fun in buying something I could make?" Well, after two full weekends of processing rough lumber (including a full day of just planing!), drilling over 500 holes (Beadlock loose tenons in the place of biscuits and pocket holes to supplement my small number of clamps), sanding, sanding, sanding, applying epoxy... I'm worn out! I now see the "value" in the above tip!

I had hoped to be able to apply the first coat of finish last night, add a new coat every night this week, and install this weekend. I didn't quite make it. Epoxy was still tacky when I went to bed last night. So I still have a lot more sanding to do to get the epoxy down flush and the excess removed.

But, I did get a couple new tools out of the job. A Kreg Jig Jr, and a handheld belt sander.

So 24 hours later my 15 minute epoxy is still a little tacky in some places. Is that normal?

Also, what's the best way to remove the excess and smooth it down? On the small spots that felt hard and dry I tried a planer blade out of the hand plane and laid flat on the wood. But it pulled up chunks of wood under the epoxy. My random orbit sander with a half used 80 grit pad did nothing. The handheld belt sander with a 120 grit belt made short work of it, sanded it smooth, but left the epoxy looking very "cloudy" and dull. Is there a better way?