Shopsmith Forums

Hi Folks,

An update - I was out of town for a week +, but in the meanwhile my new drive belt arrived and I installed that as well as the replacement sheave. Speed changing seems to go fine, but now I have a squeal that seems to originate in the motor bearings.

I looked through joshh's tutorial on the AO Smith motor (which I have) and had some questions:

1) Bearings - I looked at the link to the site but I don't seem to be able to purchase the bearings directly from that site; suggestions as where to purchase? There are some replacement bearings for this motor on eBay, just not sure if they are the best, or reasonable cost.

2) I have never replaced bearings on an electrical motor, am I going to need a puller or other special tools to remove/install bearings?

3) The four screws that hold the motor in the housing - any suggestions for removal? I struggled for a bit and finally got two out, the other two have some penetration oil on them so we will see what happens but I was surprised to have so much difficulty and don't want to strip the heads out. No visible corrosion at all. Thoughts? Seems like hex head replacements might be a better option?

I think that's it for now. Thanks for all the support, nice to have this resource (all your experience) available. - Chris

chrisvt wrote:Hi Folks,

An update - I was out of town for a week +, but in the meanwhile my new drive belt arrived and I installed that as well as the replacement sheave. Speed changing seems to go fine, but now I have a squeal that seems to originate in the motor bearings.

I looked through joshh's tutorial on the AO Smith motor (which I have) and had some questions:

1) Bearings - I looked at the link to the site but I don't seem to be able to purchase the bearings directly from that site]6203-2RS VXB.com [/B]

2) I have never replaced bearings on an electrical motor, am I going to need a puller or other special tools to remove/install bearings? Puller

3) The four screws that hold the motor in the housing - any suggestions for removal? I struggled for a bit and finally got two out, the other two have some penetration oil on them so we will see what happens but I was surprised to have so much difficulty and don't want to strip the heads out. No visible corrosion at all. Thoughts? Seems like hex head replacements might be a better option? Put PO on the other end? (under the pulley). The pulley will need to come off anyway!!!

I think that's it for now. Thanks for all the support, nice to have this resource (all your experience) available. - Chris

Beware the spring on the motor shaft(floating sheave spring).

One of the more used tool in my toolbox is a Impact Screwdriver with a 3/8" socket drive. Harbor Freight has one like I have used for years. item#37530
$7.99. I brought good quality (not HF) 3/32" & a 5/32" long reach 3/8" socket allen wrenches to use with this hammered impact driver to loosen this size set screws. The Speed Control handle (3/32") and motor fan sheave (5/32") are two places where I often have to use it. I find the hammering seems to work so much better to loosen any set screws and the motor pan (#3 phillips) and other #2 phillips screws than just twisting the allen wrench or screwdriver. Also it appears not to round out the set screw hole very often like I have believed it might have done. I do regrind the allen wrench tip when it start to round. You can put a final torque with this wrench on the set screw when tightening them.

Thanks,

Just to clarify, are we talking a gear puller such as these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... 3315_13315

Two jaw or three jaw or does it matter? Size ... 3" ok?

- Chris

billmayo wrote:One of the more used tool in my toolbox is a Impact Screwdriver with a 3/8" socket drive. Harbor Freight has one like I have used for years. item#37530
$7.99. I brought good quality (not HF) 3/32" & a 5/32" long reach 3/8" socket allen wrenches to use with this hammered impact driver to loosen this size set screws. The Speed Control handle (3/32") and motor fan sheave (5/32") are two places where I often have to use it. I find the hammering seems to work so much better to loosen any set screws and the motor pan (#3 phillips) and other #2 phillips screws than just twisting the allen wrench or screwdriver. Also it appears not to round out the set screw hole very often like I have believed it might have done. I do regrind the allen wrench tip when it start to round. You can put a final torque with this wrench on the set screw when tightening them.

Good idea!

chrisvt wrote:Thanks,

Just to clarify, are we talking a gear puller such as these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... 3315_13315

Two jaw or three jaw or does it matter? Size ... 3" ok?

- Chris

I have this set and it works well for me:
http://m.harborfreight.com/bearing-sepa ... 93980.html

joshh wrote:I have this set and it works well for me:
http://m.harborfreight.com/bearing-sepa ... 93980.html

Thanks Josh.

Hopefully I have ordered what I need and will give the SS another go in a week or so.

Anyone have any difficulty installing bearings on SS? I know some people heat the bearings a bit so they slide on easier on larger motors, probably not such a good idea with these bearings w/rubber seals?

Chris

joshh wrote:I have this set and it works well for me:
http://m.harborfreight.com/bearing-sepa ... 93980.html

I used this set from Harbor Freight for many years to remove and install a few hundred bearings. A lot cheaper ($29.95) when I brought it. I still use this set as a few times each year as my hydranic press will not allow the part to be held so I can remove or install the bearing.

The wheel puller for removing the stuck control sheave(yours with the open end). Must be able to grip the sheave(3" not big enough). 3 'hook' for sure!!! The beveled sheave surface makes that more difficult.

I agree with the HF puller. Got mine when on sale. 20% off coupon recommended when 'regular' priced. Tis crude, but workable. Standard thread sizes makes it 'adaptable' also.

JPG40504 wrote:The wheel puller for removing the stuck control sheave(yours with the open end). Must be able to grip the sheave(3" not big enough). 3 'hook' for sure!!! The beveled sheave surface makes that more difficult.

I agree with the HF puller. Got mine when on sale. 20% off coupon recommended when 'regular' priced. Tis crude, but workable. Standard thread sizes makes it 'adaptable' also.

Thanks, the HF puller is probably worth the price, not all that bad and coupon code available, but my control sheave was never seized, and has been replaced at this point. I guess it was time to get down to replacing some of this stuff, all seemed to give out at once... it has been 30 years in use though .

- Chris