Shopsmith Forums

charlese wrote:I looked at the PDF and still think the 4 degree on one side would work. The only difference would be on the first and last slat. Difference wouldn't be noticeable.

It does work, Charlese.[ATTACH]24113[/ATTACH]

Lots of goo ideas but not sure how to proceed. I have attached some diagrams that contains dimensions. Slats are cut to 3/4inch x 3/4 inch x 24 inch. What would be the most accurate and best way to cut them so they fit and make the curved top?

charlese wrote:I looked at the PDF and still think the 4 degree on one side would work. The only difference would be on the first and last slat. Difference wouldn't be noticeable.

It does work, Charlese.

I modeled your approach in Sketchup to see.

[ATTACH]24116[/ATTACH]

Each slat was beveled at 4 degrees on one side only.

Ah so the .pdf from the original poster is an END VIEW of a long slat. Now I understand.
There are so many ways to do this.

1) Cut them originally with the angle
2) Use a jointer tilting the fence
3) Use the conical disk sander

All would work.

If only one side is beveled, won't it be longer than the mating side, requiring sanding of each joint?

Mike

bear1050 wrote:Lots of goo ideas but not sure how to proceed. I have attached some diagrams that contains dimensions. Slats are cut to 3/4inch x 3/4 inch x 24 inch. What would be the most accurate and best way to cut them so they fit and make the curved top?

Do you have the 3/4 X 3/4 X24" slats cut yet?

Unless I missed it nobody is really talking about Shopsmith's main selling point. That is "borrowing settings" from one operation to the next. Every demo always included the rep making a cut then changing out the saw blade with the sanding disk without changing any of the angle settings and sanding the surface he had just cut. If you need an extra good gluing surface just cut them a smidgen (technical term) large and sand them to size with out changing settings.

Just as a side point here... If I were doing this and feared for super accuracy I would crowd the angle so that the seams on top would tend to be the tighter fit so you would be sure of complete closure and if something might show a teensy- tiny (another technical term) crack it would be inside instead of on top front and center.


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bear1050 wrote:Lots of goo ideas but not sure how to proceed. I have attached some diagrams that contains dimensions. Slats are cut to 3/4inch x 3/4 inch x 24 inch. What would be the most accurate and best way to cut them so they fit and make the curved top?

Bear
I think the best way is to cut them.
Tilt your table the 2 degrees if you are sure it is 2 degrees.
Then since the bottom of the board narrow part of camfer is 23/32 move your fence 23/32 from the blade on the left side.
Then using finger hold downs place one before the blade and one after to hold the board tight against the fence.
Then using another hold down place it on the fence to hold the wood tight against the table.

Then set your first piece on the table and using another piece guide it through the cut. Then take the piece and reverse it so front is now in back making sure the face that was on the table is still on the table and push it through again. When you finish you should have a piece of wood that looks just like the picture. 3/4' wide at top and 23/32 wide at bottom. If not then the 2 degree angle is wrong and you need to refigure the angle.

If it is good repeat for all 24 pieces.

Very interesting discussion...and lots of good methods proposed. It strikes me that the problem under consideration is akin to the situation faced by folks who build boats by the strip-plank method. Boat builders have the additional consternation of needing the angle along the long rip bevel to constantly change to accommodate the hull's curve as it tapers both directions. One way around having to cut this "'rolling bevel" is to shape matching beads and coves on the mating strips. It should be easy to find a set of router bits that will cut these shapes on 3/4" stock and I think they would provide a pretty easy-to-accomplish alternative to cutting the fussy small angle bevels.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I thought his plans showed wide end of the chamfer to be 3/4" and the narrow 23/32"

His plan does say 23/32" but a 2&#176](on each piece[/SIZE]). What's 1/64" here and there.