Shopsmith Forums

shaun.farmer wrote:The motor sounds ok to me.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwhzk85gbr4niyk/IMG_0473.mov

Yes but!

Resist the temptation to run it much until you have lubricated the control and floating sheaves. #1 problem when not maintained nor used recently.

Also I suggest you watch the saw dust sessions especially the ones pertaining to restoration(21,22,23).

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm

Looks like you hit the jackpot on that one....

I'd be glad to trade you mine for it and get started on it...

Shaun it looks like some of the same things most of us have worked thru. As suggested buy 2 large Evaporust from HF and look for naval jelly or get it at Home Depot or Lowes. 3M or similar scratch pads. To soak the tubes buy PVC pipe and cap one end and drop you tube in fill it up with Evaporust overnight two at most and rinse and start cleaning. Take it one step at a time and know it might take a good six to eight weekends to get it back in reasonable shape.
You can do this trust me if I can you can. Watch the sawdust sessions several times. I mark down the times when Nick walks thru a particular part. Ask for all the help you need.

shaun.farmer wrote:The motor sounds ok to me.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwhzk85gbr4niyk/IMG_0473.mov

I can't tell for sure. BUT remember to turn the speed dial down from fast to slow, SLOWLY. Or ya might screw up the pork chop.

My greatest concern is return on the equipment.

I'm setting up a proper woodshop and was planing to upgrade all my basic tools to contractor+ equivalents(Table saw, Joiner, etc).

Is it the right move to rehab this unit or should I just go with new tools. I appreciate the gesture, but I want to make sure I have good tools that will perform the tasks needed.

I personally would fix it up. The shopsmith band saw is good as is the jointer. The drill press function is good, the lathe adequate. A stand alone table saw is great if you have the room and the money, but the shopsmith's is ok. The newer version is much better. It all comes down to what you have to spend (always more expensive than planned, whatever the plan is!) and how much room you have. The Shopsmith is a real space saver. If the headstock needs some TLC, it really is not that hard to do.

I would definitely fix up the machine, even if evently you only use it as a drill press, lathe, band saw, and sanding sanding station - well worth the cost and time to refurb the machine. It looks in reasonably good shape to me - as noted, make sure to view/read up on headstock servicing and maintenance and give it a good going over. Once you do this and degrime and derust the machine to suit your needs, the machine will last forever with just simple routine maintenance.

If you are interested in cleaning up the bench and way tubes, what I recently did on one of my machines was get some schedule 40 PVC that was slightly larger in inside diameter than the diameter of the tubes (in my case it was for some 10E tubes and I used two 5' lengths of 2" diameter sch40 PVC - not sure off the top of my head if the Mark V tubes are bigger diamter but I think so) - I glued end caps on one end of both pipes and on the other end I put a threaded cap. I then slid the tubes into each of the pipes and filled them up with Evaporust and screwed the threaded cap on. I go out and flip them upside down every day to make sure all surfaces are coated and to keep things circulating in there. Mine were pretty rusty, so I've left them be for about a week but I'm guessing in your case it wouldn't take nearly that long.

Next, I'll pull the tubes out, recycling the evaporust back into the original containers as I presume it still has some life left in it) and give them a good sanding with progressively finer sandpaper or steel wool and eventually to really make them shine, I'll hit them with a drill mounted buffer wheel and some buffing paste. Once complete (to whatevewr level of clean-up suits your needs), give them a good coat with Johnsons Paste Wax or MinWax and buff them like a good pair of dress shoes and you'll be good to go.

As noted, the rest of the rusted steel items can be soaked in Evaoprust as well - the stuff works wonders.

My answer would depend upon your mindset. I get the impression from your use of the words 'proper' and 'upgrade'(to contractor+ of all things) that you consider the Shopsmith a less than worthy tool for your shop.

I do not think that is the case. Properly adjusted and maintained, it will perform as well as what I think you are considering upgrading to.

Surely 'single purpose tools' have an advantage in that they do not interfere with operations of other single purpose tools.

As for 'return', refurbing is mainly a labor of love. I do not know what you have invested into it, but unless you paid too much, it will get back more if it is refurbed.

As has already been said, put back in running condition and properly maintained, it will be around for use by your grandchildren.

I dare say any contractor+ tools you purchase will not.

Folks here are using machines that are 50 - 60 years old(as is Shopsmith on the production line).

No they are not using the table saw function. That is one additional tool I would suggest. Either that or upgrade to a 520.

Finally it can serve as a backup for those contractor+ tools when they break down.

dgale wrote:I would definitely fix up the machine, even if evently you only use it as a drill press, lathe, band saw, and sanding sanding station - well worth the cost and time to refurb the machine. It looks in reasonably good shape to me - as noted, make sure to view/read up on headstock servicing and maintenance and give it a good going over. Once you do this and degrime and derust the machine to suit your needs, the machine will last forever with just simple routine maintenance.

If you are interested in cleaning up the bench and way tubes, what I recently did on one of my machines was get some schedule 40 PVC that was slightly larger in inside diameter than the diameter of the tubes (in my case it was for some 10E tubes and I used two 5' lengths of 2" diameter sch40 PVC - not sure off the top of my head if the Mark V tubes are bigger diamter but I think so) - I glued end caps on one end of both pipes and on the other end I put a threaded cap. I then slid the tubes into each of the pipes and filled them up with Evaporust and screwed the threaded cap on. I go out and flip them upside down every day to make sure all surfaces are coated and to keep things circulating in there. Mine were pretty rusty, so I've left them be for about a week but I'm guessing in your case it wouldn't take nearly that long.

Next, I'll pull the tubes out, recycling the evaporust back into the original containers as I presume it still has some life left in it) and give them a good sanding with progressively finer sandpaper or steel wool and eventually to really make them shine, I'll hit them with a drill mounted buffer wheel and some buffing paste. Once complete (to whatevewr level of clean-up suits your needs), give them a good coat with Johnsons Paste Wax or MinWax and buff them like a good pair of dress shoes and you'll be good to go.

As noted, the rest of the rusted steel items can be soaked in Evaoprust as well - the stuff works wonders.

All waytubes are 1 3/4" od. Older (gilmer models?) have 1 7/8" bench tubes. Later models have 1 3/4" bench tubes. All will fit into a 2" id pvc pipe. I add a 1" pvc pipe(capped both ends) to insert into the interior of the tubes so as to reduce the volume of evaporust needed to submerge the tube.

Cap one end of the 2" pipe and a screw plug on the other.

Overnight is usually sufficient.

They can be done one at a time.

Be aware that evaporust(and other rust removal methods) will remove black oxide(it is after all a form of rust).



Do not be intimidated by all this detailed stuff and 'alternate' methods. Folks here believe in sparing newbies the agony of discovery that we have already been through.

Oh darn!

It looks like you didn’t get the fur-lined cup holder.

Still, that’s a darned nice gift.

Enjoy!!!