Shopsmith Forums

heathicus wrote:Of those two, I'd do the second one you listed. On the first one, something looks funky about the back table lock to me.

The reason the first looks funky, is because it started life as a 10E fence and had the rear lock 'added'.

You made a good choice between the two.

JPG40504 wrote:
You made a good choice between the two.

Because of this group ....

Allrightythen ... I had compared the picture in the 10ER manual with the second ebay choice and figured that it was the closest one to the original. Should have it in a week or so. I am going to start taking it apart next week for rebuild. Although I don't really find anything major wrong with it. I am going to have to find a few parts, but it should be fun. I NEED to get started on gutting my office building (I have three partitions to take down and a lot of electrical to do, records to destroy or store, furniture to dispose of ... ) ASAP so I have room for the rebuild before the Mark 7 gets here. So the rebuild will probably last until fall or so. We'll see.

Thanks again for all of the good counsel. I will be asking more questions!

heathicus wrote:Of those two, I'd do the second one you listed. On the first one, something looks funky about the back table lock to me.

Heath, that is an adapter E model fence. See the 2 holes, and no hole for the mortise hold-down? Someone did a good job converting that one.

steve

skou wrote:Heath, that is an adapter E model fence. See the 2 holes, and no hole for the mortise hold-down? Someone did a good job converting that one.

steve

I figured that's what it was, but was on my phone and didn't have time to research and verify.

I am going to start a thread in the "rebuild" section, but I thought I would update this a little. What an amazing machine the little old girl is ....

I am amazed at it's simplicity and function. I completely dissassembled the quill today (took me most of the afternoon with the quill return spring repair. Both bearings were fine, I want to take a HD video of it running to see what you guys think, more on that later.

Like I had mentioned, the quill return spring was non functional. The top of the "keyhole" where the pin on the quill shaft fits into was ripped on one side and it wouldn't stay on the pin. I used a drill press ... OK, shopsmith, heal thyself ... I slid the quill back in the machine, set it up as a drill press (with the pinion shaft loose) even though I have a drill press LOL, secured the end of the spring to a sacrifice board on the table and slowly drilled another keyhole for the pin. Reassembled and it works perfectly. Then took the rack (quill) back out did some cleaning on it, and put it all back together. I will start the cleanup and rust removal tomorrow or so (but to be honest there is not alot to do), and try to get this thing in paint (Mickyd's Verde Green and Silver which came in today from Amazon). If Micky doesn't mind, I am going to copy his color scheme, it truly is stunning! I got my 2x6's almost ready for replacing the "shelf" or whatever you call it, so that will stabilize the feet.

Question: Can I chain onto each end of the unit at the head rest and base (SS OM exploded view terminology) with a front loader long enough to get the old wood removed and the new "deck" in place? Sure would make it easy.

Anyway, just thought I would update. The motor works perfectly, the quill is in good shape, etc, and this forum is amazing. I love the "adult" attitude and approach. I have moderated 100000 plus forums before (car sites), but never with such a calm, knowledgeable and agreeable group of people.

Thanks!

PS, JPEG, the jointer works just like you said ....

rjent wrote:I am going to start a thread in the "rebuild" section, but I thought I would update this a little. What an amazing machine the little old girl is ....

I am amazed at it's simplicity and function. I completely dissassembled the quill today (took me most of the afternoon with the quill return spring repair. Both bearings were fine, I want to take a HD video of it running to see what you guys think, more on that later.

Like I had mentioned, the quill return spring was non functional. The top of the "keyhole" where the pin on the quill shaft fits into was ripped on one side and it wouldn't stay on the pin. I used a drill press ... OK, shopsmith, heal thyself ... I slid the quill back in the machine, set it up as a drill press (with the pinion shaft loose) even though I have a drill press LOL, secured the end of the spring to a sacrifice board on the table and slowly drilled another keyhole for the pin. Reassembled and it works perfectly. Then took the rack (quill) back out did some cleaning on it, and put it all back together. I will start the cleanup and rust removal tomorrow or so (but to be honest there is not alot to do), and try to get this thing in paint (Mickyd's Verde Green and Silver which came in today from Amazon). If Micky doesn't mind, I am going to copy his color scheme, it truly is stunning! I got my 2x6's almost ready for replacing the "shelf" or whatever you call it, so that will stabilize the feet.

Question: Can I chain onto each end of the unit at the head rest and base (SS OM exploded view terminology) with a front loader long enough to get the old wood removed and the new "deck" in place? Sure would make it easy.

Anyway, just thought I would update. The motor works perfectly, the quill is in good shape, etc, and this forum is amazing. I love the "adult" attitude and approach. I have moderated 100000 plus forums before (car sites), but never with such a calm, knowledgeable and agreeable group of people.

Thanks!

PS, JPEG, the jointer works just like you said ....

I'd recommend disassembling the whole thing, when you paint it. While it is apart, replace the bench top, then. 'sides, you are going to paint the legs and angle braces, aren't you?

You're right about this Forum. Admin has a real easy job, here. I was a Mod on a now defunct computer motherboard maker's Forum, so I KNOW what problems can be.

steve

skou wrote:I'd recommend disassembling the whole thing, when you paint it. While it is apart, replace the bench top, then. 'sides, you are going to paint the legs and angle braces, aren't you?

You're right about this Forum. Admin has a real easy job, here. I was a Mod on a now defunct computer motherboard maker's Forum, so I KNOW what problems can be.

steve

I hadn't thought of that that way. Or, what the *&)(*&%)* was I thinking LOL.

Yeah, everything seems to come apart fairly easily, I had trouble with the feed knob where the quill handle screws in. Lots of buggering of the shaft. Had to work it with a file after the fact, but so far everything comes apart pretty easy. Amazing after all this time .... I was going to paint the legs when I had it lifted off.

Question: how much does the headstock weigh assembled ....

rjent wrote: Question: how much does the headstock weigh assembled ....

It weighs about 70 lbs.

Drop the motor off the headstock, it will make life a LOT easier.

Unplug, first. (Duh!)

Unscrew the thin nut holding the switch in, then loosen up the setscrews holding the motor mount to the headstock. Lower the motor to the bench. You may have to tilt up the ER to clear those motor mount rods from the headstock.

This machine, (like the Mark series) is designed to be serviced by the owner.

steve

beeg wrote:It weighs about 70 lbs.

Thanks beeg, I appreciate the info.

skou wrote:Drop the motor off the headstock, it will make life a LOT easier.

Unplug, first. (Duh!)

Unscrew the thin nut holding the switch in, then loosen up the setscrews holding the motor mount to the headstock. Lower the motor to the bench. You may have to tilt up the ER to clear those motor mount rods from the headstock.

This machine, (like the Mark series) is designed to be serviced by the owner.

steve

OK Steve, I found the motor hanging full weight on the belts. The set screws that hold the motor in place were both loose. I was going to rewire it anyway, so that should work to make it lighter, plus easier to paint.

Thanks

Dick