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Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 12:11 am
by JPG
Sight unseen I cannot be absolutely sure of anything.

I concur that the sleeve must be removed regardless of whether it is the cause of the quill not moving or not.

If you are convinced the sleeve/headstock bore is siezed, then heat applied to the headstock casting may help break it loose. I think pressing(banging?) to cause lateral motion would be more successful than rotation. The quill teeth will not prevent lateral movement of the pinion. 'Bang' from both directions alternatively. Any pinion gear movement may help relieve any jamming between it and the quill. Keep the return spring housing loose during this.

Is outer end of the sleeve flush with the outside of the headstock? It may be advantageous to concentrate on moving the quill shaft towards that side(bang on the quill stop end). Any movement should be observed by the sleeve 'coming out' of the headstock bore. With the spring housing 'loose' there should be no risk of breaking the ears until the pinion gear touches the opposite ear.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 12:17 am
by JPG
rbursek wrote:Oh BTW, I have the motor out, when I spin it, it makes noise!!! Spins freely but not quite any thoughts?
Source of noise may be the centrifugal switch actuating mechanism. May be bearings. Maybe the fan sheave rubbing. Look at the fan sheave hub to motor end housing clearance first.;) Tis a known problem area! A thin sleeve spacer gets pressed into the fan sheave hub reducing clearance.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 12:23 am
by JPG
Helloooooo Bill.

We need yer experience and expertise here!

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 2:53 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
JPG, your up late, the time post here is out of sinc with real time I think.
I will answer in your order. Again thank god for split screen!!!
"If you are convinced the sleeve/headstock bore is siezed, then heat applied to the headstock casting may help break it loose. I think pressing(banging?) to cause lateral motion would be more successful than rotation. The quill teeth will not prevent lateral movement of the pinion. 'Bang' from both directions alternatively. Any pinion gear movement may help relieve any jamming between it and the quill. Keep the return spring housing loose during this."
I have done that, minus the heat, no movement. I am leaning towards heat since if Wa2crk is right and the steel bushing has adhered to the aluminum, aluminum should expand with heat at a much greater rate then the steel bushing, maybe breaking the adhesion loose. But waiting for Bill on all of this, I am in no hurry and do not want to break any cast aluminum in the HS. He has been silent around here for all most 2 weeks, I Pmed about 10 days ago and have heard nothing back.
"Is outer end of the sleeve flush with the outside of the head stock? It may be advantageous to concentrate on moving the quill shaft towards that side(bang on the quill stop end). Any movement should be observed by the sleeve 'coming out' of the head stock bore. With the spring housing 'loose' there should be no risk of breaking the ears until the pinion gear touches the opposite ear."
Yes it is flush plus about a 32 proud out of the HS casting, and the pinion gear is about 1/16" at most away from that side ear, and I have banged on both ends, using the snap ring groove on the pinion shaft by the spring housing as my other measuring mark, bushing on the other side, no movement.
"Source of noise may be the centrifugal switch actuating mechanism. May be bearings. Maybe the fan sheave rubbing. Look at the fan sheave hub to motor end housing clearance first. Tis a known problem area! A thin sleeve spacer gets pressed into the fan sheave hub reducing clearance."
WTF is a Tis????LOL!!!!
Not a rubbing sound, just so you know a bit about me, I am very mechanically astute, the way we describe things maybe different till we get to know each other better here and get our descriptors in sinc, but will give it a good look, right now cant exactly remember the sound to describe it, but not a rub, sounds deeper/more internal then that.
With that a good night, I have an ER to look at tomorrow, then you and will have fun this winter, going to make a "show pony" of it!!!!!! I love machinery and wood working, but the last few weeks more machinery refurbishing then WW, but need a mix in my life!!! All this buying and refurbishing the rust buckets back to life has cut into the WW project schedules. A cabinet that started in Jan as an idea should have been down a month ago, an other 4 weeks for sure on it, plus have to make a leaded glass panel insert for the door. An other side of my hobbies/talents.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:27 am
by fitzhugh
It's late and I honestly did not read past the first handful of posts so this may well not apply, but just in case...

If I understood you correctly about the quill feed shaft not moving laterally though it rotates (and it is unlikely I did)... I ran into a problem yesterday where I could not for the life of me pull the quill feed mechanism out to the side. Turned out the small woodruff key had rotated in its slot so one end was higher, the one , say, on the left if I was trying to pull it out to the left. Think a quarter cut in half inserted in a slot with a curved bottom, it rocked just a little and hung up. Ah I'll just post a photo in a second post in a moment...

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 3:58 am
by fitzhugh
OK, these might make more sense:
[ATTACH]24876[/ATTACH]
Here you see the key and the washer it fit hung on which in turn it jammed against the case.

[ATTACH]24877[/ATTACH]
Here it is removed with a half a dremel cut off wheel behind the key showing a much much exaggerated view of how the key had rotated in its slot.

Note you'd pull to the right in these photos, not left as I wrote above.

Again, this may well not apply, but it just might apply to that one more art of your situation It is to late for my brain to follow the thread properly. You can always ignore this. The above had me stumped because the other headstock I got with this one can't right apart the day before and I could not see it binding.

Fitzhugh

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 4:05 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
Fitz, you are on CA time right, good for me, I burn it at both ends!!!!! NO the quill feed spindle shaft does not turn, it is corroded frozen, keeping me from fully extending the quill assembly fully to remove it.
BTW, as I said on an other thread FU for your ER 10 post, now I will be buying one tomorrow, ohps, today!! For a total restore, "show pony", you owe me the $150 plus all the improvements, I will give you Honorable mention in my rebuild thread though as my inspiration to do it!!!!LOL!!! I will PM you to were to send the check or your first born.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 4:22 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
My Dear Watson, I think you may have it!!! I dont think that is it Fitz, but worth scrutinizing, since the motor is out and the HS is in the drill press position, at eye level. I can look right in there. I will check that out tomorrow pm, since I will be out buying the ER 10 you gloated me into with your shopping spree n San Fran.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 9:12 am
by JPG
rbursek wrote:My Dear Watson, I think you may have it!!! I dont think that is it Fitz, but worth scrutinizing, since the motor is out and the HS is in the drill press position, at eye level. I can look right in there. I will check that out tomorrow pm, since I will be out buying the ER 10 you gloated me into with your shopping spree n San Fran.
The washer is not the problem. The sleeve will not move.

The pinion gear should clear the ear(It has to to reach the quill). The shaft should move inside the spring housing(up to the point of the stud on the shaft and spring contacting the inside of the housing).

As I recall MickyD had a similar issue with his 10ER(siezed quill feed shaft in CI headstock). 10" bolts used as lever with sledge(or pipe) was the 'solution'.

Posted: Sat May 03, 2014 10:10 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
Good morning all, 1st I guess we now know why Bill is not chiming in, my prayers.
Off and out till later today. SHOPPING!!!!