Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:Notice he kept his finger over the top of the rip fence. Aside from the forced feed rate, I think the method has more control than a push stick. All a push stick does is push. No other guidance.

If he had control, why did he let the board come away from the rip fence?

I just don't believe this is an appropriate demonstration of the PowerPro's capability.

Yes, I agree with your comment on push sticks with regard to control. There are better ways.

I have a full kurf Freud 1/8" compo blade 50T. They make it in a thin kurf, 3/32" also, identical in every other way, I have one too. From day one and after sharpning by the same machinist/tool sharpener. Same TS, there is a world of difference on feed rate with the same wood, heck, there is 25% less width to cut for the thin kurf.

rbursek wrote:I have a full kurf Freud 1/8" compo blade 50T. They make it in a thin kurf, 3/32" also, identical in every other way, I have one too. From day one and after sharpning by the same machinist/tool sharpener. Same TS, there is a world of difference on feed rate with the same wood, heck, there is 25% less width to cut for the thin kurf.

This is a little bit off topic but "What's your point"?

dusty wrote:Thank you for the explanation. Now all I need is a domain name.

I use AvaHost but there are many out there. after the initial setup there are two separate annual (periodic, however you set it up) payments
One is for the domain name itself the other is for hosting fees that will vary depending on the options you choose.
I don't utilize mine much anymore It's just for my many e-mail accounts and a place to put pictures to link to for forums.
I burned myself out running several forums and helping to run others such as my unions local, local fishing, and a photo gallery for friends and relatives.
Keeping it all secured and backed up became more and more time intensive. Then weeding through spammers trying to join there were as many as fifty a day sometimes.

When I retire I will do something again but more limited and private.

Dusty, If you are serious and do get your own domain PM me and I can give you a couple security tips.

I don't often look to see if I have PM's so I may not notice for several days.

dusty wrote:Thank you for the explanation. Now all I need is a domain name.

Your ISP most likely provides space you can use already.
No additional cost.....

Every ISP I have ever had provided web space included in the price.

I guess you know your saw is under powered when you know.

I have managed to stall the shopsmith a couple of times in the 37 years I have had it. They were of course never my fault.

Wood has can have a lot of stress built into it and cutting it is one way of releasing that stress. If that involves major wood movement it can cause major headaches. A case in point was a time when I was ripping some 2 X 4's to get 2 X 2's. One such piece started out fine but a couple of feet into the rip I could hear the saw slowing and the the 2 X 2 next to the fence was twisting. I thought perhaps if I slowed down I could make it through. Wrong'O. Faster then a saw stop the wood twisted tight on the blade and stop it. I wasn't even pushing it at that moment.

It took a while to extricate the blade, involving wedges and other implements of destruction. One of the 2 X 2's was relatively straight while the other had turned close to 60 degrees.

Now was it a bad thing the machine had stalled? What if I had been using a 3hp saw and the same thing happened, what would have been the result? It is quite possible the lack of power was the best thing that could have happened? Perhaps it is a safety feature?

Just saying.....

Ed

With it's standard 1/2 HP motor, the Model 10 IS underpowered, as a table saw. But, by taking slow cuts, it STILL will work.

steve

skou wrote:With it's standard 1/2 HP motor, the Model 10 IS underpowered, as a table saw. But, by taking slow cuts, it STILL will work.

steve

It also has a smaller blade (8"). So for a given rpm, the blade is traveling 20% slower. Power(torque) required also takes a 20% decrease.

Final result with a 10 is cuts slower!;) But it will git er done.

I have been recently sawing(Mark 5 10") at a very slow speed and it cuts well, just not as fast. Melamine covered particle board. Too damn noisey at saw-joint speeds.

Did y'all notice in the ox video, a hand cranked circular saw?

Ed in Tampa wrote: If you are doing it to enjoy the trip then most saws have more than enough power

+1

It's not the destination its the journey.

Dusty, "This is a little bit off topic but "What's your point"?
Originally Posted by rbursek
I have a full kurf Freud 1/8" compo blade 50T. They make it in a thin kurf, 3/32" also, identical in every other way, I have one too. From day one and after sharping by the same machinist/tool sharpener. Same TS, there is a world of difference on feed rate with the same wood, heck, there is 25% less width to cut for the thin kurf.
Its all in the blade on any cutting device, you have a dull, or flat set blade, no chip removal, no matter how much power you have it aint cutting. Just try and use a metal drilling bit in soft wood and when the flutes fill with wood, it aint drilling any more!!!
OFF topic? Domain site is OFF TOPIC!!!!!!! Where talking "need more power here Scotty"!!!!