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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:44 pm
by henecle
Given the way components are installed, you cannot see the ribbon cable attachment point once the power supply is installed after you have connected it to the key pad and the headstock is back on the tubes. Prior to installing it on the tubes you can observe it and get a long blade flat-tip screw driver on to the back of it to confirm that it is seated correctly. There did not seem to be any positive catch between the male and female ribbon connection as there should be.

Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:47 pm
by dusty
charlese wrote:Dusty, I know you have said you don't have a PowerPro. Therefor we can excuse your questions.
To avoid any confusion--
The pic in post 13 is a cut-away view inside the power module. The PM is sealed. Opening it voids warranty.
OKAY. So what is the user able to do to screw up an installation such that it provides the symptoms described here?

Can any of the suspect connectors be seen without dismantling the headstock?

Can the user "measure" 120vac anywhere inside of the headstock?

Surely, oh surely packing it up and sending it back is not the only option.

Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 3:48 pm
by henecle
The key concept is SS putting 10lbs of "stuff" in a 5lbs bag... The new components leave almost no room within the headstock/motor pan. Cables/wires are short out of necessity but that's a double-edged sword. Having a simple catch mechanism for the ribbon cable connecting to the key pad would be a good fix. It's a case of check and recheck before placing the headstock back on the tubes and continuing with the installation. Once it's there, disassembly is the only option to troubleshoot a power/connection issue.

Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:35 pm
by reible
I'm sorry your having issues with the powerpro upgrade. That is the path I went and you are right about things being packed pretty tight in the headstock. It does how ever fit.

I'm assuming that you installed the new power switch supplied by shopsmith with the kit. I know of one person who decided that since his switch was working he would just keep using it. What he did not know was the the dual switch had failed on one side and the former owner had switched wires instead of replacing the switch.... which was OK to do but when the current owner had no knowledge of the situation he picked the wrong side and got nothing.

If your OK on that then it might be as simple as has been guessed, a connector being unconnected or even a single socket/plug in the connector having been pushed out. Look at all the wires and make sure they all look like they are all pushed in, remember it only take one to make things not work.

The only other thing I remember was that there is an exposed screw that is quite close to where the wires are as they fold in. I made a cover for it because I was worried that it might get stuck in a wire as everything was tightened down. I'd look at that too.

If none of those things are wrong then you really can't go any farther as the rest is all sealed up. (Dusty the image you have is a cut open model, the user only sees the black cover that is over everything.)

Come Monday morning if you haven't found anything you will need to call shopsmith.

Ed

Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:05 pm
by henecle
Thanks Ed... I mentioned in an early post today, I found the issue after disassembling, fixed it and completed the upgrade successfully.

Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 12:13 am
by reible
henecle wrote:Thanks Ed... I mentioned in an early post today, I found the issue after disassembling, fixed it and completed the upgrade successfully.
Sorry, I started my post just after reading Dusty cut away picture then got called away. When I got back I just finished it and posted it with out checking back to see what had transpired between then and when I posted.... have to try and remember to not do that again.

Ed

Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 12:18 am
by JPG
reible wrote:Sorry, I started my post just after reading Dusty cut away picture then got called away. When I got back I just finished it and posted it with out checking back to see what had transpired between then and when I posted.... have to try and remember to not do that again.

Ed
Thee also?!!!:D

Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 6:07 am
by dusty
reible wrote:I'm sorry your having issues with the powerpro upgrade. That is the path I went and you are right about things being packed pretty tight in the headstock. It does how ever fit.

I'm assuming that you installed the new power switch supplied by shopsmith with the kit. I know of one person who decided that since his switch was working he would just keep using it. What he did not know was the the dual switch had failed on one side and the former owner had switched wires instead of replacing the switch.... which was OK to do but when the current owner had no knowledge of the situation he picked the wrong side and got nothing.

If your OK on that then it might be as simple as has been guessed, a connector being unconnected or even a single socket/plug in the connector having been pushed out. Look at all the wires and make sure they all look like they are all pushed in, remember it only take one to make things not work.

The only other thing I remember was that there is an exposed screw that is quite close to where the wires are as they fold in. I made a cover for it because I was worried that it might get stuck in a wire as everything was tightened down. I'd look at that too.

If none of those things are wrong then you really can't go any farther as the rest is all sealed up. (Dusty the image you have is a cut open model, the user only sees the black cover that is over everything.)

Come Monday morning if you haven't found anything you will need to call shopsmith.

Ed

Thanks, Ed. I realize that now. I also realize that it would be very difficult for me to have a PowerPro and not be allowed to "look inside".

Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:30 am
by Billdit
As I remember it, it took me about an hour "shop time" to disassemble, fix the problem and carefully put back together, checking at each small step that there was power to the motor.

Keep in mind that a shop time hour might be longer in "real world" time.

Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:45 am
by dusty
Billdit wrote:As I remember it, it took me about an hour "shop time" to disassemble, fix the problem and carefully put back together, checking at each small step that there was power to the motor.

Keep in mind that a shop time hour might be longer in "real world" time.
I take this to mean that you hit the "power on" switch to check for power at each of these steps.

If this is the case, I wonder why the "Procedure" does not call for that rather than allow a user to completely assemble the machine only to find out that a buried connector is unplugged.

Excuse my attitude here, please. I spent too many years in the manufacturing and test environment. This sort of situation should not be allowed to exist.