Shopsmith Forums

Thanks for posting Nick's SS lesson. I enjoyed watching it and he confirmed for me, as I have learned using the molder, take light cuts. I have never had a kickback. I found it interesting that Nick didn't use finger boards or any hold downs or a roller stand on in-feed and out-feed. That's about the only changes I would make in cutting the wood he cut. Also, he pointed out that the molder can make cuts impossible on the shaper and router.

WmZiggy wrote:Thanks for posting Nick's SS lesson. I enjoyed watching it and he confirmed for me, as I have learned using the molder, take light cuts. I have never had a kickback. I found it interesting that Nick didn't use finger boards or any hold downs or a roller stand on in-feed and out-feed. That's about the only changes I would make in cutting the wood he cut. Also, he pointed out that the molder can make cuts impossible on the shaper and router.

The last sentence is quite true, however this is based on only one pass of the wood - ( or multiple passes at increasing depths). However the shaper can produce beads, grooves and other shapes on curved pieces. The molder can't do that.

Also, I believe the shaper allows multiple passes at varying spindle depths and additional passes with another cutter to yield unique shapes. This would be more difficult with the molder. With the molder, I think you only get profile that is ground into the teeth.

As I went back to read this, a light went on. When I work with wood, I seldom stretch past my comfort zone.

I have used a professional shaper in the past where I had nearly no chance of injury unless totally foolish and stupid. The only time I used the SS shaper was on a 500 while helping a friend and I was VERY cautious for fear of catching flesh or clothes.

A good friend's son wanted to making wainscoting so we bought some molder blades and I set up the 500. The boards were fed through a tunnel so there was zero chance (or so I hoped) of a board kicking back. I hated the idea that I had to reach over to get to the on/off switch.

After reading the various replies I've come to realize that
1) with double tilt, and the various safety pieces, shaping should be something I try.
2) Molding could make some ordinary projects pop
and
3) I've come to rely too much on a router and jigs, so if I can't get it done with those, I wasn't going to try.

Thank you!!
The collective brain trust, wisdom, lack of trepidation and willingness to share by those on this forum, will get me to create saw dust in new and varied ways. Not necessarily better, but definitely new and varied!

Hope to be back to reading this forum on a daily basis within a couple weeks!!

Be well,
Ben

charlese wrote:[/u]

The last sentence is quite true, however this is based on only one pass of the wood - ( or multiple passes at increasing depths). However the shaper can produce beads, grooves and other shapes on curved pieces. The molder can't do that.

Also, I believe the shaper allows multiple passes at varying spindle depths and additional passes with another cutter to yield unique shapes. This would be more difficult with the molder. With the molder, I think you only get profile that is ground into the teeth.

That's what I thought. There's a video on the Magic Molder website that shows that if you make a curved aux fence with the same curve as the work piece, you can run a curved piece through their molder. Seems like it might be more trouble than it is worth but it may be possible to do.

charlese wrote:[/U]

The last sentence is quite true, however this is based on only one pass of the wood - ( or multiple passes at increasing depths). However the shaper can produce beads, grooves and other shapes on curved pieces. The molder can't do that.

Also, I believe the shaper allows multiple passes at varying spindle depths and additional passes with another cutter to yield unique shapes. This would be more difficult with the molder. With the molder, I think you only get profile that is ground into the teeth.

...soooooo, the answer is, BUY BOTH!

That decision is completely up to you, Chris

Since you already know which I favor there is no need to say more.

My only trip to the emergency room was the direct result of attempting to utilize the molder head (it might have been the shaper - I seem to have blocked the details) and I have not been able to bring myself to attempt it again.

This happened very early in my Shopsmith experience and I was almost certainly doing something completely wrong. I do not know exactly how it all happened. I just know that the next thing was blood all over everywhere and a finger that hurt like hell.

I was later lucky. When I got to the nearest emergency room, the doctor on call was an orthopedic surgeon who specialized in fingers, hands and wrist. I have complete use of the hand, partially due to his care at that time.

As a result, some 25 years later, I have an almost unused molder set and shaper set.

charlese wrote:[/U]

The last sentence is quite true, however this is based on only one pass of the wood - ( or multiple passes at increasing depths). However the shaper can produce beads, grooves and other shapes on curved pieces. The molder can't do that.

Also, I believe the shaper allows multiple passes at varying spindle depths and additional passes with another cutter to yield unique shapes. This would be more difficult with the molder. With the molder, I think you only get profile that is ground into the teeth.

Yep, I have several shapers, one SS, the other a 1/2" stand alone made by Grizzly. I have done curved shapes on them. I believe Nick points out you can't do curved shapes with a molding head. Old story, one tool doesn't do it all.

I wasn't going to post any more on this thread, but as intentions go.......?

Here's a nagging question (at least to me) - - - What can be done on a molder that can't be done on a shaper?

charlese wrote:I wasn't going to post any more on this thread, but as intentions go.......?

Here's a nagging question (at least to me) - - - What can be done on a molder that can't be done on a shaper?

Can a shaper be used to put a profile into the face of a board?