Re: Restoring 10ER S/N 83974
Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 9:09 pm
More progress made today. The quill pinion shaft is done along with the motor and head stock pulleys.
The wedge locks had been cranked down so tight that the handles could not be removed. One was so crimped that the handle would not turn inside the wedge. I used Skip's procedure on the first two and it worked. The third one was a different story. I used a large cold chisel to open the slot. Then a 3/16" pin punch (ala Skip). Still not open enough to use the 1/4" punch. I used two large screw drivers side by side to pry the slot open enough to use Skips technique with the 1/4" pin punch. then I filed the sides of the slot to be able to remove the handles.
I bead blasted them then used the strip sander to restore the angle that presses against the tubes and quill and cleaned up other dings. The lock handles were polished on a cotton wheel and compound on my shorty.
The speed changer sheaves were glass blasted and then polished with 600 grit wet/dry and #0000 steel wool.
The wedge locks had been cranked down so tight that the handles could not be removed. One was so crimped that the handle would not turn inside the wedge. I used Skip's procedure on the first two and it worked. The third one was a different story. I used a large cold chisel to open the slot. Then a 3/16" pin punch (ala Skip). Still not open enough to use the 1/4" punch. I used two large screw drivers side by side to pry the slot open enough to use Skips technique with the 1/4" pin punch. then I filed the sides of the slot to be able to remove the handles.
I bead blasted them then used the strip sander to restore the angle that presses against the tubes and quill and cleaned up other dings. The lock handles were polished on a cotton wheel and compound on my shorty.
The speed changer sheaves were glass blasted and then polished with 600 grit wet/dry and #0000 steel wool.