Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

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BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

There’s a good reason that the “protective earth” safety ground (green wire) from your machine must be connected to a dedicated ground wire, and not the neutral wire back to your panel. It’s to protect you from shock in the event of a single-point wiring failure.

The green wire in the power cord is connected to the chassis of your machine — meaning all major exposed metal parts. This is done so that if you have an insulation failure on a hot wire, the short-circuit current will flow harmlessly to ground through that green wire, without significantly raising the voltage on those metal parts. The fault current will quickly trip the circuit breaker and eliminate the hazard. That’s the function of the dedicated ground wire. You don’t need it on a double-insulated tool, but you do on a Shopsmith.

Now lets see what happens if you connect that green chassis-ground wire to the neutral conductor back to the electrical panel.

Case 1: No electrical faults. The voltage on the neutral wire stays very close to ground, and the machine works normally. The machine chassis may have a couple volts on it, relative to earth ground, but you’d need a voltmeter to detect it.

Case 2: Single-point open-circuit fault on the neutral conductor back to the electrical panel. (The neutral conductor develops a bad connection due to a loose screw, corrosion, etc.). Now there’s no return path for the current to your Mark 7. So when you turn on the power switch, there’s no current flow, the machine won’t run, and your return wire up goes to full line voltage. And since you have connected that return conductor to your green chassis-ground wire, your entire machine goes “hot”. When you touch the machine, YOU become the return path for the current, via the earth itself! :eek:

The reasons for code requirements can be pretty obscure, and the code itself makes no attempt to explain the reasoning. But in general, wiring to code means that a single-point electrical fault will cause neither fire hazards nor shock hazards.
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dusty
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by dusty »

Very well stated. I wanted to reply but was unable to put it all in words that would make sense to anyone but myself.
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JPG
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by JPG »

Ah yes the cheater adapter returns.

The suggestion above re replacing the plug on the PP with a 230v plug and making the adapter to be male 115v to female 230v is the lessor of the evils.

Yes it is not to code! Requires installing 230v receptacles in the shop.

After going to all that trouble, the cheater cord is likely only seldom used when the PP is temporarily used external to the shop.

Low risk IMO.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by dusty »

The Shopsmith is available as either a 110vac unit or a 220vac unit. My understanding is that the only difference between the two is the plug on the end of the power cord. If this is correct AND the Shopsmith is considered safe to use in either configuration...please explain to me why an adapter cord (that allows the use of either type plug) is not an OKAY idea SO LONG AS THE ADAPTER IS USED ONLY WITH THE SHOPSMITH.

I totally understand that if the adapter is used to allow 220vac to be applied to a 110vac appliance or vice versa that bad things can happen.

If I was considering such an adaptation, I would make it as an integral part of my Shopsmith (a power switching control box). Something that could not be carried off for use in some other application. Don't ask for a design concept. I don't have one beyond what I just stated!
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jsburger
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by jsburger »

dusty wrote:The Shopsmith is available as either a 110vac unit or a 220vac unit. My understanding is that the only difference between the two is the plug on the end of the power cord. If this is correct AND the Shopsmith is considered safe to use in either configuration...please explain to me why an adapter cord (that allows the use of either type plug) is not an OKAY idea SO LONG AS THE ADAPTER IS USED ONLY WITH THE SHOPSMITH.

I totally understand that if the adapter is used to allow 220vac to be applied to a 110vac appliance or vice versa that bad things can happen.

If I was considering such an adaptation, I would make it as an integral part of my Shopsmith (a power switching control box). Something that could not be carried off for use in some other application. Don't ask for a design concept. I don't have one beyond what I just stated!
Other than being against code you are correct. However, the key words are only used with the SS and you are the only one to use the adapter. That is not a guarantee when the equipment is sold for what ever reason to someone who does not know/understand.

I would say if you want to run the SS on 220 you need a 220 outlet in your shop. Why would you ever want to switch back to 110? Just change the plug on the SS and be done with it. It certainly will not negate the warantee since SS advertises it that way.

If you cart your SS all over the place where 110 is all that is available then why run it on 220 at home? There is very little data here but I don't think there is much of an advantage to running the SS on 220 unless that is the only thing you have available.
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dusty
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by dusty »

I have no basis for an argument here. I agree that there is little evidence (if any) that either one is better than the other -- but then I don't have a Shopsmith that can be operated on 220vac. If I did, I guarantee that it would not be loaded up and carried off to other places. It would sit right here and be used the way I had it configured.
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jsburger
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by jsburger »

dusty wrote:I have no basis for an argument here. I agree that there is little evidence (if any) that either one is better than the other -- but then I don't have a Shopsmith that can be operated on 220vac. If I did, I guarantee that it would not be loaded up and carried off to other places. It would sit right here and be used the way I had it configured.
Amen! :)
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Hooper, UT
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JPG
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Re: Power Pro 110 to 220 converter attachment

Post by JPG »

FWIW, My Goldie has been wired for 230v since the day I got it. It has been moved a couple of times since. Always used on 230v regardless(interesting method used once when 230v receptacles not available however).

The advantage with the 1 hp(yes it is less powerful than the 115v only motor) induction motor is the decrease of both run and startup current by 1/2.

I doubt the increase from 1 3/4 to 2 hp with the PP is worth the effort, but gives the user flexibility(and international compatibility).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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