Shopsmith Forums

Finished the cart off yesterday. One down !
Paul

Sweet! Great work.

Well Done! And it will serve you for a long time!

WOW indeed!

One question regarding the drawer slides.

I assume the 'center' piece moves half as far as the drawer itself when pulled out/pushed in. Question is, what causes/creates that. Are there stops, if so, where?

That is separate from the actual drawer stops which may be shown in one of the pix.

Thanks for the comments JPG. These are what I call "simple drawer slides" which means they only have the two pieces and not a three piece. The ones I used here are merely a slot and slide version. They achieve full extension by having about 1.5 inches of slide extending beyond the back of the drawer. The stop is attached to the slide. The slide is attached to the drawer side by cutting a 1/32 groove into the drawer side and then gluing the strip to the drawer. The slotted receiver attaches to the cabinet carcass and has a notch cut into it on the top which allows the catch at the end of the slide to act as a stop. I will post a detailed photo when I get home. I have made the three part wooden slides in the past which are a little more involved but doable. They involve using a dovetail cut to keep the pieces mated. The drawback to the three part is I have never been able to produce them with an overall thickness of 1/2 ". They end up at 3/4" which means losing 1.5 inches of drawer space versus 1".
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:Thanks for the comments JPG. These are what I call "simple drawer slides" which means they only have the two pieces and not a three piece. The ones I used here are merely a slot and slide version. They achieve full extension by having about 1.5 inches of slide extending beyond the back of the drawer. The stop is attached to the slide. The slide is attached to the drawer side by cutting a 1/32 groove into the drawer side and then gluing the strip to the drawer. The slotted receiver attaches to the cabinet carcass and has a notch cut into it on the top which allows the catch at the end of the slide to act as a stop. I will post a detailed photo when I get home. I have made the three part wooden slides in the past which are a little more involved but doable. They involve using a dovetail cut to keep the pieces mated. The drawback to the three part is I have never been able to produce them with an overall thickness of 1/2 ". They end up at 3/4" which means losing 1.5 inches of drawer space versus 1".
Paul

Thank You. I question the strength of 1 1/2". A matter of how much weight is in the drawer. I am pondering a similar need, but am striving for thinner slides. Wide, deep, short height, but not much weight. Also will not have extra depth for extended slide. Will have 13 drawers, so simplicity is a must.

The issue is usually more the room factor and not strength. You can increase the strength of the slide by just increasing the width of the slide as needed. The 1 1/2 inches of extra length is actually more than strong enough for the purpose I have. An easy test is just mock one up out of maple or in this case Beech and see how much force it takes to break it. It will probably surprise you how much weight it will hold. It's a good idea to do a stress test on things when you are not sure of the construction technique. If lateral room is your main concern consider morttising the receiver into the carcass using a router. Not really difficult but it is another step and time consuming. The biggest concern on that method is accuracy. The carcass and the drawers have to be dead on dimensionally and square or things will bind. You can also mortise in accurides to save room.
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:The issue is usually more the room factor and not strength. You can increase the strength of the slide by just increasing the width of the slide as needed. The 1 1/2 inches of extra length is actually more than strong enough for the purpose I have. An easy test is just mock one up out of maple or in this case Beech and see how much force it takes to break it. It will probably surprise you how much weight it will hold. It's a good idea to do a stress test on things when you are not sure of the construction technique. If lateral room is your main concern consider morttising the receiver into the carcass using a router. Not really difficult but it is another step and time consuming. The biggest concern on that method is accuracy. The carcass and the drawers have to be dead on dimensionally and square or things will bind. You can also mortise in accurides to save room.
Paul

Considering something even more critical(mortising both the carcase and the drawer). Weight not the issue, drawer depth hence torque applied by human effort is. Also slides will be very small.(drawers are very shallow)

What are the drawer dimensions ?
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:What are the drawer dimensions ?
Paul

Yet TBD, but about 1 1/2" height/spacing, 18+/-" wide, 20+" deep. Contents light.