Shopsmith Forums

Pat,

You may want to spend some time viewing this Sawdust Session if you haven't already done so.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS114/SS114_Rust_Removal.htm

a1gutterman wrote:And a compliment too!:D

Check....remember spell check Pinkster.

Thanks Dusty, I had just finished watching that episode. When I compare the rust I have on the jointer to what he had on his workbench, I'm not feeling too bad.

I spent about 5 hours going through the SS today. After sitting around for 14 years, it didn't look to bad. I blew out all the crooks and crannies and wiped it down with mineral spirits, and oiled the sheaves, tightend the belt. Then applied a paste wax to everything and buffed it out.

There was some rust on the inside of the right leg panels. It looks like a cat or cats backed up to it and sprayed it. I bought some stuff with the brand name Krud, a rust remover and inhibitor. It removed most of the rust. I'll use some navel jelly on it and scrub it, to see if I can get the rest of it out.

Someone had mentioned, attaching the sanding disk and turning it while turning the dial to the lowest setting, which I did. Hey, I always do what I'm told. After getting it cleaned, then I turned it on and ran it up to high, so that I could get to the oil holes.

When I watched the hands on video of rust removal, I noticed that he never turn the dial down. He seemed to me, he would just shut it off, and when he was ready to show the next step, he would just reach over and turn it back on.

So, does everybody really do that? For example, if your doing several sawing operations, do you turn it down to slow, turn it off, then when you grab the next piece, turn it on, dial it up to cutting speed, etc. Or do you turn it down when you done for the day?

Thanks for everyones help and input. I ordered a biscuit joiner, conical sanding disk, and a dado insert.

shydragon wrote:When I watched the hands on video of rust removal, I noticed that he never turn the dial down. He seemed to me, he would just shut it off, and when he was ready to show the next step, he would just reach over and turn it back on.

So, does everybody really do that? For example, if your doing several sawing operations, do you turn it down to slow, turn it off, then when you grab the next piece, turn it on, dial it up to cutting speed, etc. Or do you turn it down when you done for the day?

I don't know about everybody, but I do most of the time. I used to wind down to slow every time (religiously) between cuts. This practice, together with inadequate lubrication, led to a needed Idler Shaft replacement.

I now follow a strict lubrication schedule and only change speeds when changing operations.

That said, one can reason that starting the machine at slow puts less strain on the motor. At slow, the motor shaft has the smallest diameter giving the best mechanical advantage. I really don't know how the high speed abrupt starts effect the guts [drive & ring assembly (514083)] of the quill, but I guess this puts more strain here .

Although when running, parts inside the headstock rotate, the part subject to the most wear is the components of the idler shaft. When speed is changed, it slides. The more it slides, the greater chance for wear.

shydragon wrote:.............When I watched the hands on video of rust removal, I noticed that he never turn the dial down. He seemed to me, he would just shut it off, and when he was ready to show the next step, he would just reach over and turn it back on.

So, does everybody really do that? For example, if your doing several sawing operations, do you turn it down to slow, turn it off, then when you grab the next piece, turn it on, dial it up to cutting speed, etc. Or do you turn it down when you done for the day?

Thanks for everyones help and input. I ordered a biscuit joiner, conical sanding disk, and a dado insert.

Hi shydragon,
I, like charlese, used to turn the speed dial all the way down, as it was in "the book" to do so. I quit doing that a long time ago, maybe with a small feeling af guilt, but I no longer feel any guilt about not doing it that way. Check out this thread (especially post 4): https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1447&highlight=speed+changing Even before Nick weighed in on this subject, I noticed that Rick Davis, the TA instructor, also turns the Mark V off and back on, without turning the speed dial down. Besides any wear and tear that this may cause, you must be careful of what speed that you start some of the SPT's at. If you DO need to slow the speed down before using one of the SPT's, simply start the Mark V up and turn down the speed before hooking up your SPT.

shydragon wrote:...............Thanks for everyones help and input. I ordered a biscuit joiner, conical sanding disk, and a dado insert.

Hi again shydragon,
I notice in your signature line that you have the SS jointer. Now that you have ordered the conical disc sander, you can sharpen the blades for the jointer, that is, if you also have the sharpening jig; SS #555471.

pinkiewerewolf wrote:Check....remember spell check Pinkster.

Hi Pinkie, the word IS spelled correctly, just means something else. Spell checkers wood not catch it, unless they are also checking for grammer.

I received the biscuit joiner today. I checked on the rest of my order, (conical sanding disc kit & dado insert). It looks like the sanding disc kit shipped today, but not the dado insert. It showed it as being available, not sure why it is not shipping.