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Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 12:31 am
by JPG
A few questions etc.
There are two heating elements on the bottom?
There are two heating elements on the top?
On the side not pictured, a wire connects the two upper heating elements?
Ditto the lower heating elements?
Does the convection fan run in convection bake position?
Does the rotisserie motor run in the rotisserie position?
Do you recall if there is any difference between toast and broil position?
I assume the toast position turned on both the upper and the lower heating elements.
I assume the broil position turned on only the upper heating elements.
What heat elements were on in the bake and rotisserie potion? Lower only? Both?
I am guessing the upper and lower heating elements were connected in series with each other AND the diode pair in warm position.
If that is accurate, the diodes should only be a factor when in warm position.
I am guessing something else is causing it to not heat at all in the other positions and the diode problem was only 'discovered' after it quit working at all.
Those motors running at all? If not the timer is likely the culprit!
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 7:51 pm
by db5
JPL’s Questions and the answers with more details.
YES There are two heating elements on the bottom?
YES There are two heating elements on the top?
YES On the side not pictured, a wire connects the two upper heating elements?
YES Ditto the lower heating elements?
YES Does the convection fan run in convection bake position?
YES Does the rotisserie motor run in the rotisserie position?
YES Do you recall if there is any difference between toast and broil position?
YES I assume the toast position turned on both the upper and the lower heating elements.
NO See my temperature readings. I assume the broil position turned on only the upper heating elements.
BOTH What heat elements were on in the bake and rotisserie potion? Lower only? Both?
I am guessing the upper and lower heating elements were connected in series with each other AND the diode pair in warm position. UPPER AND LOWER BACK ELEMENTS ARE CONNECTED TO THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL. FRONT ELEMENTS TO THE FUNCTION CONTROL. BOTH DIODES ARE OCNNECTED TO THE FUNCTION CONTROL AND THE FRONT UPPER ELEMENT.
If that is accurate, the diodes should only be a factor when in warm position.
I am guessing something else is causing it to not heat at all in the other positions and the diode problem was only 'discovered' after it quit working at all.
YES Those motors running at all?
“Curiouser and curiouser!” Cried Alice (she was so much surprised, that for the moment she quite forgot how to speak good English).”
When it stopped working it had been on for at least 10 minutes and was cold. I switched it off and back on and it still was as stone cold as a wanna be Presidential politician. I didn’t change functions to test other options.
After the last post from JPG I plugged it back in to see if the rotisserie motor was running as well as the fan. Not only where they working but the heating elements started warming. I ran some tests at both the 300 and 450 degree settings with an infrared thermometer of the temperature on the elements. Tests were taken in this order: Front Lower (FL), Back Lower (BL), Front Upper (FU) and Back Upper (BU) and were repeated. These are the results:
Bake 300
FL 120 – 110 – 106 --- BL 101 – 91 – 94
FU 110 – 91 – 110 --- BU 97 – 90 – 90
Bake 450
FL – 352 – 309 – 297 --- BL 196 – 316 - 234
FU 233 – 287 – 372 --- BU 245 – 236 – 337
Toast 300
FL 120 – 105 – 141 --- BL 98 – 89 – 108
FU 132 – 116 – 142 --- BU 126 – 107 – 116
Toast 450
FL 307 – 270 – 252 --- BL 194 – 224 – 216
Rotisserie 300
FL 115 --- BL 97
FU 196 – 350 --- BU 165 – 290
Rotisserie 450
FL 218 – 301 – 263 ---BL 184 – 196- 220
FU 633 – 713 – 779 --- BU 567 – 644 – 645
Broil 300
FL 104 --- BL 125
FU 341 --- BU 330
Broil 450
FL 229 – 238 – 291 --- BL 188 – 195 – 217
FU 623 – 669 – 664 --- BU 505 – 623 – 614
I took several readings to see if there was a gross disparity in the temperatures. Variances can be accounted for by my positioning of the thermometer’s red dot on the element but also may be due to some changes made by the oven (I doubt the latter because I don’t think it is a sophisticated design).
I didn’t check the warm function as this is not one I ever use. What I have learned from this is that with this oven, if you want to do anything you probably should set it to the highest setting. Imagine trying to toast something at 300. You will be toast before the bread will. Not good execution for this product IMEO (in my exalted opinion).
So, what next? What do those diodes really do since there is a direct connection to both upper and lower elements? Replace one, both, eliminate them or ignore then and leave it as is?
Take Away: The next time I buy one I'll check the heating elements before keeping. If it has to be set at the highest setting to broil, toast, etc. then it goes back.
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 12:21 am
by JPG
Hmmmm!
Realize the 'temperature control' is not heat sensing.* It merely turns the elements on a greater percentage of the time when set to higher temps.
Most ovens 'broil' at 550 or above.
A toaster needs to be on until 'pop up' time.(i.e. max temp setting).
Reading the coil temp does not mean much(other than they were 'on'.
If you never used the 'warm' function, then fergit about the diodes!
* I did not see a temp sensor attached to the temp control.
I am guessing at this point the timer acted up when it quit. It may do so again.
Re: Help from an Electrician/EE Engineere etc.
Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 9:19 am
by db5
Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I'll reassemble it and close this one down.
