Shopsmith Forums

If the WD 40 doesn't work go to an auto parts store and pick up a can of Liquid Wrench. That may work. Just put it in a shallow vessel and soak for a day.
Paul

masonsailor2 wrote:If the WD 40 doesn't work go to an auto parts store and pick up a can of Liquid Wrench. That may work. Just put it in a shallow vessel and soak for a day.
Paul

aka 'petroleum distillate' = kerosene(smells like it).

My 'clue' was regarding possible moisture between the blades that froze. After thawing, the plate glass phenomenon occurs.

Several people have mentioned WD40. I am not sure why. WD40 is not a lubricant. It is a water repellent. We do not have a water event here.

dusty wrote:Several people have mentioned WD40. I am not sure why. WD40 is not a lubricant. It is a water repellent. We do not have a water event here.

It does not penetrate well either.

It is however (mis)understood as a catch all do everything miracle blend of 'something' that NASA created back then.

Hence the first thing 'thought' of as a potential solution.(pun intended)

Works sometimes so the myth is reinforced.

I know some of you will "gasp" at this recommendation, but why not take a propane torch and lightly heat one side around the arbor hole. Hopefully, the expansion will pop them loose. Of course you don't want to get it so hot that you ruin the temper of the steel.

Bruce wrote:I know some of you will "gasp" at this recommendation, but why not take a propane torch and lightly heat one side around the arbor hole. Hopefully, the expansion will pop them loose. Of course you don't want to get it so hot that you ruin the temper of the steel.

No, that might be a reasonable solution but ...but how does one know when enough heat has been applied. The concern is obvious, I think,. Too much heat will warp the blade and Puttn can scrap a $100+ blade set.

I just checked on the blades, (they've been "allowed" to be in the house) and I've got them to slide back and forth but they won't "pop" apart yet. I'll keep you posted on the dilemma.

algale wrote:

beeg wrote:I'd say NO HAMMERS,HIGH HEAT and PRYING. Place it in a shallow pan and soak it overnight in mineral sprites or wd40. Then the next day, try to slide them apart using the arbor holes.

These blades are designed to be rotated around an axle (arbor) at high speed and smashed into a piece of hard wood for crying out loud! And since they aren't designed exclusively for Shopsmith, they must be capable of taking the force/torque exerted by multi-horsepower cabinet saws!

Please explain how the rotational "force/torque", equates to the side pressure of prying?

beeg wrote:

algale wrote:

beeg wrote:I'd say NO HAMMERS,HIGH HEAT and PRYING. Place it in a shallow pan and soak it overnight in mineral sprites or wd40. Then the next day, try to slide them apart using the arbor holes.

These blades are designed to be rotated around an axle (arbor) at high speed and smashed into a piece of hard wood for crying out loud! And since they aren't designed exclusively for Shopsmith, they must be capable of taking the force/torque exerted by multi-horsepower cabinet saws!

Please explain how the rotational "force/torque", equates to the side pressure of prying?

It doesn't. My post prior to this suggested applying rotational force. Your post, which followed, referred to "no prying." I interpreted that, incorrectly perhaps, as a reference to my prior post. I agree, no prying. Rotational force ok.

putttn wrote:I just checked on the blades, (they've been "allowed" to be in the house) and I've got them to slide back and forth but they won't "pop" apart yet. I'll keep you posted on the dilemma.

You just need to "slide them back and forth" with a bit more gusto. As long as them 'move' the way you just described, they come apart. Slide them until the carbide begins to cause a resistance to sliding and then slid with gusto.