Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

algale wrote:You need the screw that goes through the base of the handle into the block. It is part 261 in the diagram.

snip.JPG

For some reason, when I click it, it isn't coming up with the correct part number or price. Call customer service Monday.

Not in the parts list either, but it is an 8-32 x 3/4 fillister(?) head screw. (1 1/4 would work better)

Maybe, maybe not. The design changed as well as the screw. I had bent one that I got with one of my shopsmiths, how it got bent is beyond me. Anyway I went to the parts list and order one and what came did not fit, as in wrong thread count. I think from memory the new ones are a course thread and the old ones the fine thread.

When I called CS Jan was nice enough to go out to a bin of old fasteners and find me the right one, bless her. Of course that was some years ago and I have no idea if anyone would do such a search now.

Ed

reible wrote:

JPG wrote:

algale wrote:You need the screw that goes through the base of the handle into the block. It is part 261 in the diagram.

snip.JPG

For some reason, when I click it, it isn't coming up with the correct part number or price. Call customer service Monday.

Not in the parts list either, but it is an 8-32 x 3/4 fillister(?) head screw. (1 1/4 would work better)

Maybe, maybe not. The design changed as well as the screw. I had bent one that I got with one of my shopsmiths, how it got bent is beyond me. Anyway I went to the parts list and order one and what came did not fit, as in wrong thread count. I think from memory the new ones are a course thread and the old ones the fine thread.

When I called CS Jan was nice enough to go out to a bin of old fasteners and find me the right one, bless her. Of course that was some years ago and I have no idea if anyone would do such a search now.

Ed

Or could.

New = self threading and old = self tapping?

Thank you all again! I was fortunate that the screw was in the handle so i have attached it to the base. This makes a big difference as the clamp is much stronger now.

@JPG - I'm not sure what the "miter angle stop pin" is.

Also, I am missing "Taper Screw" (279). Trying to figure out what it does.

Tightening the taper screw expands the miter bar. This can help "tune" the fit of the miter bar in the miter slot and remove some of the sloppiness in the fit. If tightened further, the taper screw locks the miter bar in the slot which can be useful for certain operations.

Thanks. I'll have to get that part. I'm surprised that the handle end of the miter bar doesn't have a washer (part 283) like the front does. This would prevent the handle end from riding up. I'm sure its by design but i'm not sure why.

Underneath the 'protractor' part are three set screws. They are adjustable stops. When the 'pin' is pushed in, it will bear against the stop screws at the angle positions of 0 and +-45 degrees. When pulled out it has no effect. It only is functional when near their angle setting, and from the 'open' side direction.

Turn it upside down and you can see it better.

I'm not sure what the "miter angle stop pin" is.
#276A

Thanks. I spent a couple of hours Sunday trying to get the table saw aligned. Much better now.

MrWilliams wrote:Thanks. I spent a couple of hours Sunday trying to get the table saw aligned. Much better now.

Once aligned, I think you will find it is a very capable saw.