Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:Those of thee that find the newer version(marked flat edge) adequate would really like the older curved edge version. No need to block the drum shaft at all. You rotate the shaft as you adjust the height. When it drags you stop.

There is no need to block the drum shaft on the new one. In fact I have never even thought of that. Put a "T" handle allen wrench in the leveling screw, use it to rotate the cutter head towards the set line and check the setting, tweak the screw and check again. Piece O cake.

I wonder why SS changed the jig. Maybe they found the precision of the old jig had to be greater because the blade should touch the arc all the way around no matter where on the arc you set it initially. With the old gauge the arc must be perfectly concentric with the cutter head to be accurate. With a single set point the blade height will always be the same. No great precision needed with the gauge but the set height of the blade will always be the same.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:Those of thee that find the newer version(marked flat edge) adequate would really like the older curved edge version. No need to block the drum shaft at all. You rotate the shaft as you adjust the height. When it drags you stop.

There is no need to block the drum shaft on the new one. In fact I have never even thought of that. Put a "T" handle allen wrench in the leveling screw, use it to rotate the cutter head towards the set line and check the setting, tweak the screw and check again. Piece O cake.

I wonder why SS changed the jig. Maybe they found the precision of the old jig had to be greater because the blade should touch the arc all the way around no matter where on the arc you set it initially. With the old gauge the arc must be perfectly concentric with the cutter head to be accurate. With a single set point the blade height will always be the same. No great precision needed with the gauge but the set height of the blade will always be the same.

I think so. Also a curved punch is harder to maintain(sharpen) than a curved one. The roughness of the punched curve(we be shearing after all) makes for a less than precision surface for those just sharpened blades to scrape against. After being used a few times, the high spots are gone ).


I think unowho would consider it even cruder due to the rough surface. After all he is an expert in that venue!

@JPG> unowho, if I use one of those I will deburr and polish that area where the fine new edge of the blade caresses it, to about 1000 wet and dry.
When I saw that on the video, that made me shutter, a new sharp blade against some piece of stamped metal that was put in a tumbler with some grit to deburr after stamping, as I stated earlier, IMHO a crude devise.
Happy snow day

ERLover wrote:@JPG> unowho, if I use one of those I will deburr and polish that area where the fine new edge of the blade caresses it, to about 1000 wet and dry.
When I saw that on the video, that made me shutter, a new sharp blade against some piece of stamped metal that was put in a tumbler with some grit to deburr after stamping, as I stated earlier, IMHO a crude devise.
Happy snow day

You can't polish it to make it right if it is not concentric to begin with. That is why the single point gauge is superior and does not need to be precise since it sits on the machine the same way every where and there is only ONE point of measurement. The machine is the precision instrument. If there is a nub on the jig it still sits on the machine the same way.

If you want to call it a crude device so be it but it works just fine. Until you try it don't knock it. You just might be surprised.

@john>
If you want to call it a crude device so be it but it works just fine. Until you try it don't knock it. You just might be surprised.
John, I am a very opened minded person, the seller has one in his CL posting, dont know which style, and a sharpening jig included. I will be picking it up tomorrow if all works, delayed a day, mom has a bug, and I had to address that today, nurse, PA, ect, she is feeling better, still taken names and kicking butt. She is just writing them down a bit slower.

All this trap rattling over a stamped part! Both versions do work, just a matter of procedure and/or personal preference or what one has.

That said we are all ignoring the fact that the 'procedure' sets the blade height to a tie bar that holds the sides together.

Only if the elevator screws/table are also aligned to that same tie bar(the other side!) does it result in even cutting side to side of the workpiece.

Setting the height of the blade cutting edge relative to the outer periphery of the blade holder will likely be as good.(assumes that table/screw adjustment again only now to the blade holder outer surface).


Bottom line: Does it cut the same thickness across the width of the blade.

JPG, yes, I am going to make a better mouse trap, enough said here I will post/start a knew thread on it when it happens in a few weeks.
Now go shovel snow None here and a above average the next month, dont have to shovel rain Go figure

Here's what I use fwiw. They both work great. The Magna set is for the jointer and the planer pal for the planer.
Paul