Shopsmith Forums

oldiron wrote:Extend your quill far enough so the spindle is free of the drive sleeve and see if the drive sleeve has the roughness. If the drive sleeve spins smoothly, It's the spindle bearings and these are very simple to replace. Mike

Thanks Mike. Let me count the bearings based on the exploded view linked in mickeyd's restoration post. There are 2 bearings in the drive shaft assembly 102-15x. There is 1 bearing in the gauge collar assembly 102-3x and 2 bearings in the spindle and quill assembly 102-16x. Did I count correctly?

Let's start with the drive shaft assembly 102-15x. I studied mickeyd's post and pictures but I'm still unsure. With the quill removed do I just tap that assembly out from the inside with a hammer and hardwood dowel or some such thing?

102-3x??? Don't think so!

The drive sleeve assembly is retained by a set screw that holds the spacer between the two bearings. I do not recall any other means of securing it. Pushing from the inside is likely required to get the assembly out the rear. Crud will resist removal.

JPG wrote:102-3x??? Don't think so!

Oh good! One less bearing to buy Thanks JP

Tom, The headstock only has 4 bearings. Two on the spindle and two on the drive sleeve.

Remove the allen screw which retains the drive sleeve assembly and using a large wood dowel from the inside, drive out the drive sleeve.

Just a quick note, If the drive sleeve bearings spin freely and smoothly, I wouldn't change them unless you feel confident with the procedure required.

The spindle bearings are very easy to change. You just need a solid vise and some plain washers as Skip shows in his video...

Mike

oldiron wrote:Just a quick note, If the drive sleeve bearings spin freely and smoothly, I wouldn't change them unless you feel confident with the procedure required. Mike

Thanks Mike. Removal of the drive shaft bearings (102-15X) now seems doable, but how about re-installation? Do they need to be pressed in place?

tomsalwasser wrote:

oldiron wrote:Just a quick note, If the drive sleeve bearings spin freely and smoothly, I wouldn't change them unless you feel confident with the procedure required. Mike

Thanks Mike. Removal of the drive shaft bearings (102-15X) now seems doable, but how about re-installation? Do they need to be pressed in place?

Yep, gently with pressure only to the inner race. Easy access!!!

Tom, As JPG mentioned, The drive sleeve needs to be carefully pressed back into the headstock casting. You only need to tap on the outer bearing race to press it back in.

I also apply a very small amount of Indian Head type gasket sealer to the outside of both bearings races upon installation which will prevent any possible bearing spin inside the headstock bore.

Keep in mind, The drive sleeve bearings are basically "slip fit" back into the headstock.

Mike

ERLover wrote:Tom, thanks for rescuing one!!! You wont regret it. As JPG once said, guards, we dont use freaken guards. I see the upper ones all the time on Ebay, lower ones rarely, now get a Speed Changer and feel that warm wet feeling.

I've got an upper guard or 3.

The next time I install them, will be the first time.

Yes, 57, and STILL have all my digits, and MOST of
my intelligence. (Yes, more digits than intelligence!)

Tom, I may have some more experience with the Model
10 than most. (ER Lover may have me beat, though)
Let me know what I can do to help you. I do have a
set of metal legs as well as the casters not attached to
a machine. You'll pay shipping, plus a dime or 4.

steve

oldiron wrote:Tom, As JPG mentioned, The drive sleeve needs to be carefully pressed back into the headstock casting. You only need to tap on the outer bearing race to press it back in.

I also apply a very small amount of Indian Head type gasket sealer to the outside of both bearings races upon installation which will prevent any possible bearing spin inside the headstock bore.

Keep in mind, The drive sleeve bearings are basically "slip fit" back into the headstock.

Mike

Mike, once removed, the drive sleeve, with all its bearings will
slip back in, with NO issues. Provided the headstock is clean.

When I re-assemble a headstock, the Indian, as well as his Head,
are NO WHERE around.

You need to be able to simply assemble this tool, as well as disassemble
it. I work on cars 40 hours a week. Hans didn't build a car!

steve

skou wrote:

ERLover wrote:Tom, thanks for rescuing one!!! You wont regret it. As JPG once said, guards, we dont use freaken guards. I see the upper ones all the time on Ebay, lower ones rarely, now get a Speed Changer and feel that warm wet feeling.

I've got an upper guard or 3.

The next time I install them, will be the first time.

Yes, 57, and STILL have all my digits, and MOST of
my intelligence. (Yes, more digits than intelligence!)

Tom, I may have some more experience with the Model
10 than most. (ER Lover may have me beat, though)
Let me know what I can do to help you. I do have a
set of metal legs as well as the casters not attached to
a machine. You'll pay shipping, plus a dime or 4.

steve

Steve if you are serious and Tom doesn't want them, I am very interested in the casters. This "new" 50 model that I just acquired in San Antonio doesn't have casters. I would love to find a set for the metal legs.

Anyway, thanks in advance if you want to let them go. Just PM me or post here with what you want for them ....