Shopsmith Forums

jsburger wrote:

algale wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

This blade points, visibly, to the right when the band saw is stopped. It isn't a question of dull.

What kind of guides? Guides adjusted correctly? Guides worn? Whose blade? Tension proper? Still points the same way all the way around when rotated by hand? Lay the blade on a flat surface. Does it appear to be perpendicular with the surface all the way around?

Not disagreeing with you just some questions.

Believe me, been through all of that 2-3 times.

I've used both the original Shopsmith guides and the cool blocks and adjusted each properly (meaning the Shopsmith guides were just off the blade and the cool blocks were on it). Tension was set properly per the tension gauge and then increased in an attempt to see if that was the issue.

The blade appears to be perpendicular when laid flat.

Now, to blow your mind: points right when rotated by hand clockwise. Reverses and points left when rotated by hand counterclockwise.

jsburger wrote:

algale wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:Just an observation. I have a 17" Grizzly band saw and two Shopsmith bandsaws. When I install a fresh blade, drift virtually disappears. As you use the saw and pressure is applied in a nonuniform manner (as in we are not machines), one side of the blade dulls at a faster rate. In other words, we don't feed stock exactly straight into the blade. Then we enter drift mode. There comes a time when we must stop being cheap and simply replace a blade. Yes, you can compensate for drift, but please recognize that there comes a time (sooner than later) when you need a new blade.

What kind of guides? Guides adjusted correctly? Guides worn? Whose blade? Tension proper? Still points the same way all the way around when rotated by hand? Lay the blade on a flat surface. Does it appear to be perpendicular with the surface all the way around?

Not disagreeing with you just some questions.

Believe me, been through all of that 2-3 times.

I've used both the original Shopsmith guides and the cool blocks and adjusted each properly (meaning the Shopsmith guides were just off the blade and the cool blocks were on it). Tension was set properly per the tension gauge and then increased in an attempt to see if that was the issue.

The blade appears to be perpendicular when laid flat.

Now, to blow your mind: points right when rotated by hand clockwise. Reverses and points left when rotated by hand counterclockwise.

Try a different blade or two.

Not going to notice the issue except with a resaw blade trying to follow a straight line and I've only got the one.

Don't you find it odd that several of us have reported this issue with the 5/8ths resaw blade.

I've been reading about the problem with drift and it seems it happens with both tables. I've read also that those who purchased the Carter 11" don't seem to be having that problem. I really don't want to have to fool with the drift issue so I may be better off keeping the old table and just getting the Carter upgrade. Most of what I'll be doing is resawing.

putttn wrote:I've been reading about the problem with drift and it seems it happens with both tables. I've read also that those who purchased the Carter 11" don't seem to be having that problem. I really don't want to have to fool with the drift issue so I may be better off keeping the old table and just getting the Carter upgrade. Most of what I'll be doing is resawing.

There are two Carter guides. Make sure you get the right one.

I use a 1/2" woodslicer blade and I have the non-stock bearings that I retrofitted as described in this thread:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maint ... t8361.html

That bearing modification and the addition of the blade guides described have worked for me and turned out to be cheaper then the carter guides. Now I own the carter guides and have both sets for my other bandsaw and they are great. I would have changed to them on the shopsmith except it working fine with the mods I've put in.

I have had a bandsaw since the early 1970's and have yet to put a fence on one. I have how ever been thinking about that of late and if so I would go with the carter magnetic one for about $100 and that would work on both saws I own, another reason to not go to AL. I have the carter circle guide as well and really like there products, I have no idea if that works on the AL table shopsmith but it does work on the cast iron one.

If you want the shopsmith add ons for the AL table then getting it on sale is nice but also keep in mind all those other attachments are going to cost you more money, and is that where you want to spend your money?

Ed

algale wrote:
Believe me, been through all of that 2-3 times.

I've used both the original Shopsmith guides and the cool blocks and adjusted each properly (meaning the Shopsmith guides were just off the blade and the cool blocks were on it). Tension was set properly per the tension gauge and then increased in an attempt to see if that was the issue.

The blade appears to be perpendicular when laid flat.

Now, to blow your mind: points right when rotated by hand clockwise. Reverses and points left when rotated by hand counterclockwise.

Al, it's just physics. Unfortunately, it's not particularly simple physics! Mine works swell with a 5/8" resaw blade, so something is different about yours. We just gotta figure out what.

There's only about 3-1/2" of vertical separation between the upper and lower guide blocks. If you adjusted both the upper and lower sets of fresh cool blocks for zero clearance (with the blade nice and straight), and a 5/8 blade is still deflecting right and left, then something is forcing it to bow (in the front-back direction). The backup bearings should prevent that, if set properly. If they don't, I suspect that improper wheel cant is pushing the blade against the lower backup bearing with excessive force. The upper backup bearing shouldn't even contact the blade, except when cutting.

Al humor BD and myself. Remove the lower guide bearing and I bet the blade drifts towards the back as was indicated earlier this week.

The wider the blade, the more effect the lack of cant will contribute to unequal tension front to back.


I am convinced(until proved otherwise) that the SS upper wheel cant is critical to resawing with wide blades.(along with belt wear and effective wheel bevel angle).

Also the crowned wheel on most other saws create a similar effect(drift).

I furthermore think the harder the rubber tires, the less likely drift will occur. Call it gut feel if you like!

Going back to the original post I think both the old and the new lack in size. You can make your own of any size for next to nothing. Mine allows me a large enough surface for jigging etc. I get away with that size table because I never remove the saw from the SS. If you are going to remove it I suggest a smaller table
Paul

Since I have the Incra Original Jig setup like this fella I found this post interesting. It seems like it would solve the problem of drift and give me a nice way to use the fine tuning ability of the Incra Jig.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=37094