Shopsmith Forums

There are several way to use a table saw to effectively joint wood. I'm sure those interested will google their way to some answers.

This is a jig the works well for getting a straight edge to start with and then use that edge against the fence for your second cut to width. With advent of the "glue edge" type blades you really don't need to joint boards any more in a lot of cases.

Take a look at this post:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 11262.html

In the case of a ruff edge or a bad bow you can just trim off that material and establish a good edge to work from. If you don't have one of these jigs or something like it, I put it on your list of must haves.

Ed

ERLover wrote:I agree and some disagreements on the last 4 post, a good TS blade, exp Freud's glue line rip blade is as good as any joint edge.
I bought a conical disk this fall, with the right grit, a smooth edge for a glue up.
If a jointers blades are not set perfect or fed to fast, can have chatter marks depending on how hard the wood is.
If in fact a glue up edge is a bit course, the glue fills in the minute imperfections. With that said I use Tight Bond II, and I have it in the regular and the dark, the dark dries a bit darker then unfinished cherry, the regular dries a bit yellowish if I remember right, I dont use it as much as the dark, since I work with cherry, walnut and white oak finished to the Fumed color.

So what are you saying? If a tool is not set up properly it will not work as intended. That is true of every tool not just a jointer.

Fed too fast? That is operator error. You can't blame the jointer.

There is a learning curve on using a jointer properly. I think it is less intuitive than most other tools and probably the least understood tool in the shop. I also think the learning curve is very shallow but if you don't learn how to properly feed stock across a jointer your results will be less than satisfactory.

After the table saw I consider the next most essential tool in the shop to be a jointer, next is a band saw and then the thickness plainer.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:Confused? Me too!

Why would one end up with "A straight edge and the other with minor imperfections". They should be the same(same tool marks etc.).

It is called a jointer because it creates edges for joining. Saws simply do not do that, although current day saws could be said to do so.

The conical disc sander is a good substitute for a jointer, but setting it properly is tricky. 'Finish' is not as good as a sharp jointer.

I totally agree JPG with one exception.

I think it is more the blade than the saw. I used a Forrest WWII on my SS for years. Joint one edge and saw to width. It was extremely hard to randomly pick up one of those pieces and immediately see which edge was jointed and which edge was only sawn. You really had to look. The same is true on my Powermatic PM2000 now with the same blade.

The blade IS the saw. No blade, no saw!

So what are you saying? If a tool is not set up properly it will not work as intended. That is true of every tool not just a jointer.

I am saying there are many ways to get a smooth enough glue up edge other then a jointer.
And as far as your statement about the 2nd most needed/used tool in the shop is a jointer, that to me is an opinionated statement, depending on the type of wood working you do.
Some would say the router is.
I have a book on jointery, in it, the author shows how to create each major joint types with hand tools, router, table saw ect, where applicable.
John, there is more then one way to skin a cat, some are more efficient then others.

@John B>
After the table saw I consider the next most essential tool in the shop to be a jointer, next is a band saw and then the thickness plainer.
I would think to a turner, his lathe is the # 1 machine, in mine and yours it is way down on the list, for me I dont turn, so WAY down on the list.
So that is why I said your statement was an opinionated one based on the type of WW you do.
For the type of WW I do it is an essential tool that I can afford, but if I was on a budget and could not afford one, I could edge joint with other options.

ERLover wrote:@John B>
After the table saw I consider the next most essential tool in the shop to be a jointer, next is a band saw and then the thickness plainer.
I would think to a turner, his lathe is the # 1 machine, in mine and yours it is way down on the list, for me I dont turn, so WAY down on the list.
So that is why I said your statement was an opinionated one based on the type of WW you do.
For the type of WW I do it is an essential tool that I can afford, but if I was on a budget and could not afford one, I could edge joint with other options.

Well I did say "I consider".

Well I did say "I consider". Yes you did John

ERLover wrote:Well I did say "I consider". Yes you did John

Translation: IMHO!

For me the jointer is just a quick starting point to create the edge I want. As long as you have a long enough fence on your TS you can use it to creat glue joints that work fine. Just remember to invert the pieces to ensure an absolutely parallel edge. I use the combo blade that I use for pretty much everything else with great results. The other method I use occasionally is my router table with a straight cutter which works extremely well in situations where I cannot afford even the slightest tear out on a long board. if you don't have a jointer one option is to build a large router table which can make an excellent long bed jointer. It mostly lends itself to edge jointing as the tallest bit is usually about 3 1/2" but makes an excellent jointer. It also has the advantage of the ability to change the cutter much faster than knives on a jointer. Combined with a spiral straight cutter the router table works actually better than a standard jointer. I say standard because a spiral head jointer is another whole world.
Paul

As always, a great education from you guys that know what you are doing. I'm experimenting with the router option as I generally only joint fairly short boards for small projects.

And yes, as mostly a turner (and I use that term loosely!) my lathe is my number 1 tool followed by the grinder and band saw! When I wander into flat work, then the SS seems to be the way to go!