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Posting here (as well as on my thread) since it involves the same subject. The solution for me was simple: buy a new blade. In my case the 1/2", 3-4 tpi Wood Slicer is giving excellent resawing results right out of the box with no need for other upgrades to the band saw or higher tension.

Have you had to adjust for "drift" using this blade?

putttn wrote:Have you had to adjust for "drift" using this blade?

When I mounted it, I did not change the fence (which was adjusted for drift on the previous blade). It cut perfectly with the fence like that. I have not tried setting the fence straight to the table to see what happens, but I probably should.

I'm in the same boat practicing on my BS. I'e heard about the Woodslicer but also the Carter guides that help eliminate drift. I'm playing with mine today wit a new 1/2 inch Olson blade but will order the Woodslicer and guides. I just don't have the time/patience to fool with "drift". I'll let you know my experience.

Puttn, you need to get rid of the bow in your band saw table before you have a chance to resaw with a great deal of success.

Yeah, I am finding out the hard way. Spent the whole afternoon trying to get some even results resawing scrap lumber. To compound the problem I have a Magswitch universal track as a fence and it is out of square by 1/16 so that and the bowed table gave me some interesting results. I like the new blade and I forgot I had some Cool blocks so I guess I accomplished something and I'm a lot more familar with my band saw than before!!! I did check for square with my Wixey. On the "Starboard" side the blade read 89.7 and the "port" side 90.7. Not sure how that is possible but that's the reading. Two inches out from the blade on the table starboard side I zeroed and placed it two inches on the port side and gained 2 degrees. Now I have to figure out what all that means!

putttn wrote:Yeah, I am finding out the hard way. Spent the whole afternoon trying to get some even results resawing scrap lumber. To compound the problem I have a Magswitch universal track as a fence and it is out of square by 1/16 so that and the bowed table gave me some interesting results. I like the new blade and I forgot I had some Cool blocks so I guess I accomplished something and I'm a lot more familar with my band saw than before!!! I did check for square with my Wixey. On the "Starboard" side the blade read 89.7 and the "port" side 90.7. Not sure how that is possible but that's the reading. Two inches out from the blade on the table starboard side I zeroed and placed it two inches on the port side and gained 2 degrees. Now I have to figure out what all that means!

I would conclude that the two sides of the fence are NOT PARALLEL. However, the Wixey does introduce some error. Measure the same surface multiple times and you will see that.

Humped table, out of square fence, attempting measuring the blade dangle.

All caused by observing that hump in the table.

Where will it lead?

Seems a tail chasing endeavor at best.

LOL...that's what I felt like yesterday. By the time evening arrived I was completely perplexed but it's great to be able to come here and get questions answered and learn from you folks.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=37094

This thread from a few years back may give you an idea of what the SS Bandsaw is capable of. I have the same setup from Incra (you can fine them on CL for $50) and am attempting to duplicate what this fella did. While I'm not looking to get veneers I'd like to get stock set up for small boxes. His results are pretty impressive.