Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

algale wrote:

JPG wrote:You need a half stop on the way tube raising.

Table tilted 45(ends up horizontal), way tubes tilted 45, work piece horizontal.

Sand to dimension.

I assume from the roll eyes you are being sarcastic, but I actually thought about doing just that. It seems like it might be slightly hazardous.

The reason for the tongue in cheek!

A bit trickey, but single ply butt joint(or a variation) with a miter at the front face only(lotta hand shaping).


I think the strength will be a greater problem.

You have not specified the material but a mitered plywood joint does not make sense.

How thick???

If I get up the courage, I'm going to google "single ply butt joint" - but not before I put the adult filters on!

To answer your question, she wants to use 3/4 ply.

reible wrote:Hope this makes the joint clear enough to understand.

ScreenHunter_90 Feb. 10 19.27.jpg

ScreenHunter_91 Feb. 10 19.27.jpg

ScreenHunter_92 Feb. 10 19.28.jpg

Ed

Yes, that makes sense. Another part of the problem is she wants the edges of the opening beveled (not just mitered at the corners) as well! Drawers will sit back as far as the bevel. Her design aspirations exceed my build capabilities!

Sounds to me that you have the perfect argument of why you need a festool.
Short of that how about a sliding miter saw.
Short of that you need a friend with a radial arm saw.
Short of that build a jig to guide a circular saw (aka Skill saw) as Masonsailor2 suggested which is probably the cheapest and easiest way to do this. I would still hold out for the festool.

Al, just to ramp up the pressure a bit more, read the "Continuation of Grain Pattern" section of your Mr. Sawdust book. It starts on page 96, and I have a hunch that this is the look that your wife envisions. Of course, you would have to start with a workpiece that is 11' long, thereby compounding your machining problem, and making it impossible to source from plywood!

For those without the book, it's a technique for cutting a 90 degree V groove almost through the workpiece, enabling it to be folded into a miter-joint configuration. The last few thou of material folds around the joint, keeping the external grain pattern continuous.

In the book, the V cut is made on a well-tuned cast-iron radial arm saw. But even if you have to make a through cut, for lack of a practical way to make the folding cut, it seems to me that starting with a long board and keeping the grain aligned around the ends would do great things for the aesthetics.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Al, just to ramp up the pressure a bit more, read the "Continuation of Grain Pattern" section of your Mr. Sawdust book. It starts on page 96, and I have a hunch that this is the look that your wife envisions. Of course, you would have to start with a workpiece that is 11' long, thereby compounding your machining problem, and making it impossible to source from plywood!

For those without the book, it's a technique for cutting a 90 degree V groove almost through the workpiece, enabling it to be folded into a miter-joint configuration. The last few thou of material folds around the joint, keeping the external grain pattern continuous.

In the book, the V cut is made on a well-tuned cast-iron radial arm saw. But even if you have to make a through cut, for lack of a practical way to make the folding cut, it seems to me that starting with a long board and keeping the grain aligned around the ends would do great things for the aesthetics.

I've seen this done with small boxes. Nothing on the scale I'm going to be building.

algale wrote:
I've seen this done with small boxes. Nothing on the scale I'm going to be building.

Would this be the sort of bevel she is looking for?
The plywood edge would need to get covered anyway and the bevel if it looks like this needs to be made in real stock and not plywood.

Ed

reible wrote:Would this be the sort of bevel she is looking for?

ScreenHunter_93 Feb. 10 22.38.jpg

The plywood edge would need to get covered anyway and the bevel if it looks like this needs to be made in real stock and not plywood.

Ed

Hi Ed,

That's almost it but she want no step to the bevel and probably sharper. She is aware of the ply issue. Seems not to be bothered by it, though I am. Clearly the easiest and best looking way to do this is to add a beveled face frame after the build is done.

So here is my wife's sketch. Not shown is the inward bevel on the edges of the carcass.

A good "right brain' drawing!

Leaves it up to your "left brain" to figger out how.

Interesting, she doesn't mind the ply edge yet wants a bevel.

A recipe for "that is not what I wanted" IMHO.