Shopsmith Forums

A big clue is the name that is used for the set screws "fence offset screws" and not calling them "alignment screws".

I personally don't care what people do but as this forum is a learning tool for new users they should know the intent of the screws is not now or ever been to align the fence for the table saw. Do they work for that other purpose, maybe, maybe not.

I believe it is more then that it is not designed to be used that way on the table saw but more of a problem when the main table butts up to an extension table and the rip fence has to span the break. If the set screw falls between tables there goes your alignment.

(On the shopsmith version I've had no problem spanning that two but I know others have said they couldn't do it. Perhaps older hardware?)

As for what is said in manuals and instructions I'm not sure they ever tell you which way to mount a saw blade, do the teeth go this way or that way??? I got a used shopsmith and the user had two blades mounted backwards.... he said the saw didn't cut well????? I wonder why. Commonsense needs to be involved somewhere along the way.

Ed

dusty wrote:The information may be there but only if you want to read that way. Telling you to back off the set screws does not mean that they cannot be used even if only for minor tweaking. Yes, they are not the primary means of alignment.

Enough said. Each to their own. All that is important is that no one gets hurt due to a poorly aligned fence.

The 'point' of saying back them 'off' is so they will not contaminate the alignment being done. After that, whatever floats yer boat(as long as thee are aware of what thee is doing and understand the fence is being biased intentionally for whatever reason).

Just remember to back them off when finished being 'deviant '!

The beauty of my modification is that if you bump the fence slightly out of alignment you don't have to fiddle with those 2 cap screws on the bottom of the fence. AND when you end up where a set screw hits where 2 tables meet, the UHMW gives a larger bearing surface, Beisimer and Saw Stop fences both use the type of design I have adapted my fence to, if you like the old Shosmith design and the way it works, so be it, but if you think it out dated, as I do, do what I did, and make the change, you won't the be disappointed, it works so well and GLIDES effortlessly, and locks tight! The Ford Model T was a great car 100 years ago, but thankfully cars have evolved, and some people improved the Model T,they call that Hot Rodding so I guess I am a Hot Rodder.

I've updated to the 520 on two of my machines so the only fence I have of that style here is the one I use for drill press. In that case the screws make no difference one way or the other. My other 500 is upnorth and will be coming home this spring/summer and it is still set up as a multi function machine.

I've had a shopsmith since 1976 (and that is my oldest machine minus the 10ER) so I spent a great deal of time using the old fence. I also upgraded to the newer fence when they came out.

I still will give a strip of uhmw plastic a try but I am not nor have I ever had the sticking problem you have talked about. I can see where that could be a pain to have to deal with.

I'm not familiar with some of the older hardware but I had no real issues with how any of my older fences worked. Having said that the 520 system is much nicer arrangement for most of my work. I keep the 500's around because they can be still be useful for a lot of projects and I have a lot of old jigs that I made that I can still use.

If I think of it I'll report back here with results of my testing.

Ed

After all of this discussion about the set screws on the 510 rip fence, I must admit that it is covered in the manual and my previous position is in question. This one paragraph says it all even though you need to 'read between the lines' a little. The set screws are there to facilitate offsetting the fence and not for basic alignment.

The 520 fence is a vast improvement over the Mark 5.

I have and regularly use both. I have a tough time understanding why the 520 fence is a vast improvement over the 510.

Please, more information as to why you feel this way.

As is the 510, though not so much so(improvement).

I had not thought of mounting the 510 fence to the back so the screw can bias the fence the other direction(since there is only one screw), but am coming up short to think what that would be required for????

520 vs 510 is a mixed bag. The 520 provides more t-slots. but the 510 has the 'historical' through holes for jig mounting.

The 520 dual clamps are likely an improvement over the screw and lever on the 510(Never used 520 fence, so that is perception only).

Regardless I consider both the Mark 5(and 10ER fence as well) and the 510 fence to be adequate. Just more length and 'frills' on the newer ones.

I used a 520 on a friends SS and just was envious of how smooth it was, I was in the process of buying a new fence, Mark V Model 500 Rip Fence Upgrade, but decided to try these improvements first, with what I have accomplished, I will probably keep my Hot Rodded Mark 5 fence. I only use my Shop Smith as a back up Table saw, for when my Saw Stop is set up for another operation and I don't want to change it out then back, after 27 or more years I still like my Shop Smith.

I went from a 500 to a 520. Then I got a used 510, it was like a step back and I wasn't impressed with the rail system which means the fence since it is how it all works together. I went and laid out the money to update the 510 to a 520 so if you like the term put your money where your mouth is then its I've been there and done that.

Like all things personal preferences are part of the deal. I didn't go the route of having a 510 first so I think having a 520 first ruined it for me. I had some issues with the 510 rails so perhaps I could have dealt with the fence if my rail problems were not there but such is life.

Ed