Drill Press Quill Retract ?

[oldiron]

Terry,

When winding the quill return spring, Insert it in the headstock first. I have multiple model 10's and have found that 4 full turns works just about perfect.

After winding it towards you, Insert the quill back in the headstock while holding the feed lever and re-engage the quill to quill feed pinion. Slowly allow it to retract in the headstock til it engages the drive sleeve splines. Unless you are EXTREMELY lucky, You will need to jiggle the spindle back and forth a little bit until the spindle splines engage the drive sleeve splines. You almost need three hands but two will do.

Remember to "Not" allow the quill feed pinion to snap backwards. Otherwise, The spring may pop back off of the retaining pin.

You can wind the spring housing by hand but it is "Not" advisable. Do the winding of the spring after you reinsert the quill feed pinion back in the headstock and the retaining collar reattached on the opposite(non-logo) side.

All the Best,
Mike

[TooTall]

Ron,

I checked my inbox followed the link and tried the download button, which is active but I get no download. (?) I am using an older version of Safari on a Mac.

Are the headstock bearings readily available?

Is B.C. Bearing still on Government Street?

Thanks,
Terry

[TooTall]

rjent ,

You wrote,
I have split a couple of sheets of plywood using my 10ER, one on the 4 foot side and one on the 8 foot side, and it did fine. I DID have one of the other machines acting as an outfeed table and the Mark 7 acting as an infeed "helper". I felt very comfortable doing so and the saw itself made as good a cut as any of them. I prefer the 10ER for small parts, as skou pointed out, the control and precision seems to me to be better. It doesn't have the power for larger/thicker stock, but using it for what it is good at, it doesn't get any better.

There are subtle differences between the E and the ER. The R stands for "Revised" but they are small.

"Revised" . . . great, thanks!

It would be interesting to know what the changes were, but I think what you are saying is that there is virtually no difference in main components or their operation.

Maybe the changes were to the base, like retractible casters. (?)

Thanks,
Tall Terry . . . which is what everyone around here calls me with the odd "Too Tall" or "Tall" for short and several other unique ones that friends like to use thrown in.

[jsburger]

Hi John,

You wrote:
"You might need/want to put another half turn of pre-tension on the spring."

Did you mean adding another half turn at the start after quill removal, or can another half turn be added after the quill is reinstalled, by un-notching and turning the spring enclosure, without having the spring slip out of its housing?

Or did you mean that if I desire more tension, that I have to removing the quill again, to add the extra half turn or so?

Thanks,
Terry

No you can't add more tension after the quill is installed. If you do 3 1/2 turns and install the quill and find the tension is not enough then remove the quill, release the tension and rewind it 4 turns and install the quill. Actually you don't have to remove the quill. Once you fully extend it and it releases from the pinion gear, advance the handle another 1/2 turn and reengage the pinion gear.

[JPG]

10E vs 10ER.

The table trunion is slightly different. The ER has cast in stops for 90 +- 45. The E stops are adjustable(similar to the Mark 5/V)...

The miter gauges are different. The ER is shaped similar to the Mark 5/V... Neither has stops at 90 +-45.

The E did not have a depth scale on the quill return spring housing. The ER has a somewhat adjustable scale.

The E tail stock has a cast in(not adjustable) MT2 socket for the tailstock center. The ER socket is adjustable.

The tailstock aux table mount also differs. The E had two studs that a bracket slides up/down. The ER has a machined surface(guides) on both the tailstock and the aux table support bracket and a (big) retaining screw.

The E rip fence clamps only at the front. The ER has a second clamp at the rear.

The E extension table(wood) has studs that the rip fence is secured by. The ER has a metal(early CI, more commonly Aluminum) extension table that has a rail similar to the main table rail.

There were additional differences as the ER 'evolved'.

So there are more than 'subtle' differences.

I am getting ready to 'vacation', but will take pix to illustrate the differences if it has not been already done when I return. I do not have an ER main table/trunion.

[jsburger]

10E vs 10ER.

The table trunion is slightly different. The ER has cast in stops for 90 +- 45. The E stops are adjustable(similar to the Mark 5/V)...

The miter gauges are different. The ER is shaped similar to the Mark 5/V... Neither has stops at 90 +-45.

The E did not have a depth scale on the quill return spring housing. The ER has a somewhat adjustable scale.

The E tail stock has a cast in(not adjustable) MT2 socket for the tailstock center. The ER socket is adjustable.

The tailstock aux table mount also differs. The E had two studs that a bracket slides up/down. The ER has a machined surface(guides) on both the tailstock and the aux table support bracket and a (big) retaining screw.

The E rip fence clamps only at the front. The ER has a second clamp at the rear.

The E extension table(wood) has studs that the rip fence is secured by. The ER has a metal(early CI, more commonly Aluminum) extension table that has a rail similar to the main table rail.

There were additional differences as the ER 'evolved'.

So there are more than 'subtle' differences.

I am getting ready to 'vacation', but will take pix to illustrate the differences if it has not been already done when I return. I do not have an ER main table/trunion.

A perfect description.

[ERLover]

@ JPG > I am getting ready to 'vacation', but will take pix to illustrate the differences if it has not been already done when I return. I do not have an ER main table/trunion.
Thank God, but will miss ya.

[JPG]

@ JPG > I am getting ready to 'vacation', but will take pix to illustrate the differences if it has not been already done when I return. I do not have an ER main table/trunion.
Thank God, but will miss ya.

Who said anything about being 'missing'?

[skou]

Hi John,

You wrote:
"You might need/want to put another half turn of pre-tension on the spring."

Did you mean adding another half turn at the start after quill removal, or can another half turn be added after the quill is reinstalled, by un-notching and turning the spring enclosure, without having the spring slip out of its housing?

Or did you mean that if I desire more tension, that I have to removing the quill again, to add the extra half turn or so?

Thanks,
Terry

Terry, yes you have to (almost) remove the quill.

Remove the stop nuts and washer, advance the quill, until
you've run out of feed, with the lever. Turn the lever another
1/2 turn further, now push the quill back into the headstock.

You'll need to align it with the stop rod, and align the spindle
into the drive sleeve. Put the drill chuck on the spindle to make
this easier, and remove the upper belt guard. Hold one in
place, and turn the other, and they will mesh up.

You might need to do this a couple times, until you get the
tension you want.

Warning, DO NOT let go of the advance lever, with the quill out.
If for some rare reason, you need to stop there, slowly let the
advance spring rewind.

It is MUCH easier to tighten the spring this way, than by
taking apart the cross shaft assembly.

Abridged version, remove the stop nuts. Advance quill until
that stops. Advance another 1/2 turn further. Push quill in,
while winding the handle in. Check tension, rinse and repeat
as needed. Replace stop nuts and washer.

Should take 15 to 30 seconds, your third time. (First 2, you'll
be swearing at me.)

steve

[TooTall]

10E vs 10ER.

The table trunion is slightly different. The ER has cast in stops for 90 +- 45. The E stops are adjustable(similar to the Mark 5/V)...

The miter gauges are different. The ER is shaped similar to the Mark 5/V... Neither has stops at 90 +-45.

The E did not have a depth scale on the quill return spring housing. The ER has a somewhat adjustable scale.

The E tail stock has a cast in(not adjustable) MT2 socket for the tailstock center. The ER socket is adjustable.

The tailstock aux table mount also differs. The E had two studs that a bracket slides up/down. The ER has a machined surface(guides) on both the tailstock and the aux table support bracket and a (big) retaining screw.

The E rip fence clamps only at the front. The ER has a second clamp at the rear.

The E extension table(wood) has studs that the rip fence is secured by. The ER has a metal(early CI, more commonly Aluminum) extension table that has a rail similar to the main table rail.

There were additional differences as the ER 'evolved'.

So there are more than 'subtle' differences.

I am getting ready to 'vacation', but will take pix to illustrate the differences if it has not been already done when I return. I do not have an ER main table/trunion.

Yes indeed, more than subtle differences!
I was wondering about no depth gauge on the spring housing.

THANKS!
Terry