I cleaned the exposed part of the quill as well as I could. It's still a bit 'orange' but a LOT better.
So I retract the quill all the way, then let it out and as it extends it does so unevenly. IOW: it goes quicly for the 1st 25%, then slows to a crawl, then speeeds up, then slows down before it's 100% extended.
How do I address this? Do I take the quill out? Does it need a new spring?
I cleaned the exposed part of the quill as well as I could. It's still a bit 'orange' but a LOT better.
So I retract the quill all the way, then let it out and as it extends it does so unevenly. IOW: it goes quicly for the 1st 25%, then slows to a crawl, then speeeds up, then slows down before it's 100% extended.
How do I address this? Do I take the quill out? Does it need a new spring?
TIA,
---JC
YOU pull the knob to make it "EXTEND".
The return spring causes it to "RETRACT" as you move the knob back.
Allowing it to retract unimpeded is not a good idea.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I cleaned the exposed part of the quill as well as I could. It's still a bit 'orange' but a LOT better.
So I retract the quill all the way, then let it out and as it extends it does so unevenly. IOW: it goes quicly for the 1st 25%, then slows to a crawl, then speeeds up, then slows down before it's 100% extended.
How do I address this? Do I take the quill out? Does it need a new spring?
TIA,
---JC
First check the underside of the quill for old grease and if any remove it and add some fresh grease, but more is NOT better. In the Quill spring housing spray in some penetrating oil and work it back and forh and let it set over night and then do the same in the am and see what the results are. They are a PITA to take apart.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
@JPG> "YOU pull the knob to make it "EXTEND". I thought you would rotate it?
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
ERLover wrote:@JPG> "YOU pull the knob to make it "EXTEND". I thought you would rotate it?
If you 'rotate' the knob, it comes loose.
In spite of Erlover's aversion to removing the quill, it would be a good idea to do so. With it 'out' of the headstock it can be worked on more easily.
Other than the rust removal of the quill shaft, the gear rack teeth can be cleaned the pinion gear teeth cleaned and the quill feed shaft checked for freedom of movement including the quill spring.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Rotate. Retract. Extend. As my daughter would say... What...Ehhhhver!
OK next stupid question:
ERLover wrote:In the Quill spring housing spray in some penetrating oil and work it back and forh and let it set over night and then do the same in the am and see what the results are. They are a PITA to take apart.
1. Where is this 'spring housing'? How do I access it?
I looked at Jacob's video of disassembling the quill and it didn't seem too tough to take -apart-. It looks like you could run into trouble putting it back together.
But say I do take it apart. Then what?
How can I tell what's wrong? Could it be the spring?
ERLover wrote:@JPG> "YOU pull the knob to make it "EXTEND". I thought you would rotate it?
If you 'rotate' the knob, it comes loose.
In spite of Erlover's aversion to removing the quill, it would be a good idea to do so. With it 'out' of the headstock it can be worked on more easily.
Other than the rust removal of the quill shaft, the gear rack teeth can be cleaned the pinion gear teeth cleaned and the quill feed shaft checked for freedom of movement including the quill spring.
I miss understood your thought process, I was going on mine about not removing anything at this time, but now understand yours if removing the Quill. Mars and Venus, Yeng and Yang
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
Just be real careful if removing the Quill to NOT let the Quill spring retract, lock it in place extended!!!!!
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
With the quill removed,you have access to the entire length for complete rust removal. You can clean up everything on the quill shaft.
The quill spring is in a housing in the quill feed shaft, but unless something indicates a problem with it it need not be gotten into.
With the quill shaft removed, you can rotate the quill feed shaft and determine if it is sticking etc..
If it is sticking, it can be examined for why.
Objective at this point is to assure everything moves freely.
Do not overlook the instruction to not let the quill spring unwind quickly. Allow it to do so by slowly moving the handle back. Also do not move the handle past the spring neutral point.
Yes locked extended is a safe method, but does not allow for checking the quill feed shaft motion. When checking motion, only move it in the forward feed direction. Again do not move it past the spring relaxed(neutral) position.
I realize this can be overwhelming at first, but you want to get things moving correctly before using it.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange