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I'm thinking the Veritas is more than adequate. .003" is a piece of paper over 50". I like the price point too.

Skizzity wrote:I don't wanna start a fight.... The Veritas is flat to .003" over 50". The Starrett says +- .0002" per foot. For a 36" Starrett it has better accuracy but will cost more, correct?

IMO, the Starrett accuracy is way over kill for wood working unless you find a WELL kept used one at a real bargain.

The 50" Veritas is $92. The Starrett's from Lee Valley (could be a bit cheaper else ware) are $212 for 36" and $330 for 48". That is a huge difference for accuracy that is not needed.

jsburger wrote:

Skizzity wrote:I don't wanna start a fight.... The Veritas is flat to .003" over 50". The Starrett says +- .0002" per foot. For a 36" Starrett it has better accuracy but will cost more, correct?

IMO, the Starrett accuracy is way over kill for wood working unless you find a WELL kept used one at a real bargain.

The 50" Veritas is $92. The Starrett's from Lee Valley (could be a bit cheaper else ware) are $212 for 36" and $330 for 48". That is a huge difference for accuracy that is not needed.

Thanks. Thoughts on the Woodpeckers 36"?

Skizzity wrote:

jsburger wrote:

Skizzity wrote:I don't wanna start a fight.... The Veritas is flat to .003" over 50". The Starrett says +- .0002" per foot. For a 36" Starrett it has better accuracy but will cost more, correct?

IMO, the Starrett accuracy is way over kill for wood working unless you find a WELL kept used one at a real bargain.

The 50" Veritas is $92. The Starrett's from Lee Valley (could be a bit cheaper else ware) are $212 for 36" and $330 for 48". That is a huge difference for accuracy that is not needed.

Thanks. Thoughts on the Woodpeckers 36"?

I have a few Woodpeckers tools. They are quality made in the USA items. The accuracy is equivalent to the Veritas but a little more expensive (again made in the USA). It should be just fine plus it doubles as a ruler.

Thanks John. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on the 38" aluminum Veritas. I like those steel ones though.

Skizzity wrote:Thanks John. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on the 38" aluminum Veritas. I like those steel ones though.

One thing about the Veritas is that the edge is nice and wide, 7/16". It is very stable. From the pictures the woodpeckers looks to be about half as wide as the Veritas.

Here is a scan of a single sheet in my notes. This is the worst of my tables. Shopsmith offered to attempt a "repair" but I opted out. I use the table as is and have noticed no problems.

Skizzity wrote:I don't wanna start a fight.... The Veritas is flat to .003" over 50". The Starrett says +- .0002" per foot. For a 36" Starrett it has better accuracy but will cost more, correct?

That's ±0.0006 over the entire length(possible, but likely smaller).

Over 4'(48") it could be ±0.0008) That is almost 4x as accurate.

You betcha!!!

Skizzity wrote:

Ed in Tampa wrote:By the way the procedure in the link above given by Nick fixed a huge flatness problem on my main table. I'm still not happy with the table flatness but that is life.

The procedure that Nick outlines to align the the table is the best I have found. I have tried nearly every procedure given on this forum with the exception of Reible's latest and none work as well as Nick's which is the one specified in the Shopsmith manual. Perhaps the manufacture knows about the machine they build.

Are you referring to the procedure of taking the table to a machine shop to have it reground flat? If I understand correctly, Nick says nothing can be done for the flatness other than that. Shimming won't work. Maybe I missed it.

Some money pics....right-front to left-rear seems to be the worst but both off.

I'm sorry if you are checking the table with the tilt lock loose then the table is warped. However the warp was a lot less when I loosened the tilt lock. I then used the dollar bill and my table looked a lot better not perfect but better.

The dollar bill trick (or twenty dollar bill trick) helps prevent the table from binding as it is tilted by increasing the gap between the trunnions and the tie bar castings.

I do not understood why you (Ed in Tampa) say that the dollar bill trick improves (or lessens) your table warpage. In theory, the dollar bill trick should increase the amount of table distortion when the lock is applied as compared to not using the dollar bill trick. That is because when the tilt lock is applied, the trunnions are squeezed against the tie bar. By using the dollar bill trick and increasing the gap between the trunnions and the tie bar, the trunnions need to be squeezed further toward the tie bars to apply the same locking force, I illustrated that point in this picture (ignore the second text box).



The very real possibility of table flex was confirmed by one of our forum's resident engineers, in this post, http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 45#p178945, where he said "If the trunnion-to-table-bar gap is too large, then tightening the lock would surely flex the table..."