Shopsmith Forums

hhill wrote:JPG, Charlese, et al,

This old jointer has straight tubes, which is why I ordered eccentric tubes for it so I will have some horizontal adjustment just like my band saw.

Anyway, I placed my order yesterday for new bearings, knives, and the tubes. I checked today and it said that it has shipped. So next week I will go to a machine shop and have the new bearings pressed on the cutter head, and I will be back in business.

Thanks for the help.

You can actually do it your self without a press. Use a deep well socket that clears the shaft an only bears against the inner race of the bearing. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet or even a small hammer. The interference fit is not that tight and it works fine and saves the machine shop cost.

The big thing is to start the bearing square with the shaft. The same thing is true with a press.

hhill wrote:JPG, Charlese, et al,

This old jointer has straight tubes, which is why I ordered eccentric tubes for it so I will have some horizontal adjustment just like my band saw.

Anyway, I placed my order yesterday for new bearings, knives, and the tubes. I checked today and it said that it has shipped. So next week I will go to a machine shop and have the new bearings pressed on the cutter head, and I will be back in business.

Thanks for the help.

A tip, I mainly use mine for edge jointing, most of my lumber I buy I have face planed and run through there drum sander if I am not doing an edge joint glue up. Here is the tip, move your fence back and forward for edge jointing, to use all edges of the blades. Otherwise you are always using the same area of the blades.
It is nice to have a spare set of blades. I have found the easiest way to set them is set the tables level with a long straight edge, I use my magnetic base Strabil 32" level to set the tables, then 2 9" magnetic Torpedo Levels on each side of the table, just so the blades touch them at there high point. My other one dedicated jointer, after setting the tables, I have a piece of plate glass that I set on the tables, and use Rare Earth Magnets to pull the blades to the bottom of the glass at there high part of there cutting Arc and then tighten them in place.

ERLover wrote:

hhill wrote:JPG, Charlese, et al,

This old jointer has straight tubes, which is why I ordered eccentric tubes for it so I will have some horizontal adjustment just like my band saw.

Anyway, I placed my order yesterday for new bearings, knives, and the tubes. I checked today and it said that it has shipped. So next week I will go to a machine shop and have the new bearings pressed on the cutter head, and I will be back in business.

Thanks for the help.

A tip, I mainly use mine for edge jointing, most of my lumber I buy I have face planed and run through there drum sander if I am not doing an edge joint glue up. Here is the tip, move your fence back and forward for edge jointing, to use all edges of the blades. Otherwise you are always using the same area of the blades.
It is nice to have a spare set of blades. I have found the easiest way to set them is set the tables level with a long straight edge, I use my magnetic base Strabil 32" level to set the tables, then 2 9" magnetic Torpedo Levels on each side of the table, just so the blades touch them at there high point. My other one dedicated jointer, after setting the tables, I have a piece of plate glass that I set on the tables, and use Rare Earth Magnets to pull the blades to the bottom of the glass at there high part of there cutting Arc and then tighten them in place.

ERLOVER, quick question... If you have a piece of glass on the tables, how do you reach the locking screws for the knives? Trying to picture it...

Not sure he is referring to a SS jointer.

If it was only on the outfeed table, I can see it working...

The glass and Rare Earth DO NOT work on a SS blades Jointer, the 2 Torpedo levels do. On my Delta clone dedicated the glass works, since I can get at the blade mounting set screws from the sides with the fence removed.

In hind sight, if a person bought 3/4" wide glass pieces and did the Rare Earth magnets on each side of the SS jointer, it would work. tighten the middle ones and then remove the glass and tighten the end ones.

The SS jointer involves 5 screws. 2 are used to set the height(to coincide with the outfeed table top) and the other three are to secure the wedges. All are accessed from the cutting side of the blades and in line with it them.

Hi all,

Just to give the final update. I installed new bearings using a 1/2 pipe nipple and a small ball-peen hammer. All is ok. The shaft and coupler on the jointer no longer get hot.

hhill wrote:Hi all,

Just to give the final update. I installed new bearings using a 1/2 pipe nipple and a small ball-peen hammer. All is ok. The shaft and coupler on the jointer no longer get hot.

Glad it worked out for you! Thanks for the update. Too many times a problem is posted here, then all the advice, and we never here how it turned out so that we can learn and put the problem/results in are repatars.
Freaken spell check!!