New Mark V Owner
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Re: New Mark V Owner
I think if it were me I'd take it apart and check the lengths of the tubes.
I'd check to see if the tubes are straight, any bend anywhere is not good. You can do that on a good flat surface by rotating the tubes and looking to see that they are straight.
Check the diameter of the tubes, on this year of machine they should all be the same.
Check to see if the area the tubes fit into is not damaged, check for cracks on the inside of the casting.
Ed
I'd check to see if the tubes are straight, any bend anywhere is not good. You can do that on a good flat surface by rotating the tubes and looking to see that they are straight.
Check the diameter of the tubes, on this year of machine they should all be the same.
Check to see if the area the tubes fit into is not damaged, check for cracks on the inside of the casting.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: New Mark V Owner
I appreciate all the replies. I agree, I think the best bet is to take it all the way down and measure everything to make sure it's right, then put it all back together. It's obvious that the previous owner did something wrong when installing the new tubes. Can someone point me to the lengths that the different tubes are supposed to be so I can be sure I have the right ones on top and bottom?
Re: New Mark V Owner
The bench tubes, the lower set needs to be 3/4" longer then the way tubes, I don't have the actual length at my finger tips but this is the critical thing anyway. If you were to say make a shorty, ie a shopsmith with less then full length tubes then you need to make sure the 3/4" is still there.
I do recall that the tubes when installed should have about 48-1/4" of bench tube exposed.
I'll see if I can get the actual dimension and add that to the thread or perhaps someone will beat me to it.
Ed
I can't seem to find that number but from memory they are 52-3/4" and 52". If I'm wrong someone will post about it I'm sure.
I do recall that the tubes when installed should have about 48-1/4" of bench tube exposed.
I'll see if I can get the actual dimension and add that to the thread or perhaps someone will beat me to it.
Ed
I can't seem to find that number but from memory they are 52-3/4" and 52". If I'm wrong someone will post about it I'm sure.
Jimmy18 wrote:I appreciate all the replies. I agree, I think the best bet is to take it all the way down and measure everything to make sure it's right, then put it all back together. It's obvious that the previous owner did something wrong when installing the new tubes. Can someone point me to the lengths that the different tubes are supposed to be so I can be sure I have the right ones on top and bottom?
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- JPG
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Re: New Mark V Owner
52 and 52 3/4 is correct.
You said the PO 'replaced tubes'?
Do take it all apart and verify the tubes.
They are easier to clean then anyway.
P.S. Why were they replaced????
You said the PO 'replaced tubes'?
Do take it all apart and verify the tubes.
They are easier to clean then anyway.
P.S. Why were they replaced????
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: New Mark V Owner
The Craigslist posting showed photos with rusted tubes (not severely) but he said he had since replaced them since the photo was taken. When I got there they looked as they do now. In good shape but it's obvious it had been stuffed in a corner of the garage for a few years.
Question for when I try to break it all down tomorrow. How do I remove this hinge? Most notably whatever that is in the hole. It's not a hex.
Question for when I try to break it all down tomorrow. How do I remove this hinge? Most notably whatever that is in the hole. It's not a hex.
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Re: New Mark V Owner
And to further clarify I think he replaced them when he did the 510 upgrade.
Re: New Mark V Owner
JPG, I also took your advice and ordered a brand new arbor and saw blade. Saw blade was pretty expensive but seems to be of great quality. Can't reiterate enough how much I appreciate all the advice and help you guys are giving. I think I would have been operating it unsafely without it.
- JPG
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Re: New Mark V Owner
I do not think it was me who suggested a new arbor and blade, but good advice.
That pin is driven INTO and through the hole(there is an exit hole on the other end). A pin punch needs to be used as you do not want to mushroom the pin. It does not need to be removed unless you want to clean up the hinge pin.
Do you know which tubes were replaced? bench-way-both
That pin is driven INTO and through the hole(there is an exit hole on the other end). A pin punch needs to be used as you do not want to mushroom the pin. It does not need to be removed unless you want to clean up the hinge pin.
Do you know which tubes were replaced? bench-way-both
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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Re: New Mark V Owner
A previous post tells how to remove the roll pin that secures the hinge pin BUT unless you feel a real need to do so, I would not.Jimmy18 wrote:The Craigslist posting showed photos with rusted tubes (not severely) but he said he had since replaced them since the photo was taken. When I got there they looked as they do now. In good shape but it's obvious it had been stuffed in a corner of the garage for a few years.
Question for when I try to break it all down tomorrow. How do I remove this hinge? Most notably whatever that is in the hole. It's not a hex.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
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Re: New Mark V Owner
I totally agree. The tubes have not been inserted into the castings as far as they should be. There should be a gap but a very small gap between the Tie Bar and the Headrest.reible wrote:Maybe it is just the picture. But I don't like the look of the tube positions. And, if my thinking is right then the tubes are not installed correctly and could be a accident waiting to happen. So before you do much else check to see the tubes are inserted and clamped in the right position. Doing so may fix the issue you were discribing in the post.
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Seriously if those tubes pull out when moving it the machine could be damaged and require some additional repairs and added cost for them. If you are not sure how to proceed just ask we have an abundance of helpful people here.
Oh yes welcome to the forum and on your new to you machine.
Ed
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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