Shopsmith Forums

I found this thread
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... 4-s20.html
where pulling the fan sheave is discussed, and Bill Mayo offered this advice which worked for not2shabby:

"I use 2 large flat blade screwdrivers with the tips on each side of the wide part of the fan sheave hub and the motor front plate. I use a hammer on each screwdriver to move the fan sheave out to where I can get a gear puller on the fan sheave. You may have to remove the key before pulling the fan sheave with the gear puller. I use cutter piers to remove the key if it starts to come out with the fan sheave."

If you've already put it back together and it runs, great, but maybe this info will be helpful next time.

If and when you do get the fan sheave removed and the end cap behind it, be careful as the armature will want to slide out, and it may damage the centrifugal switch (if your motor has one like mine) on the end opposite from the fan sheave.

br549 wrote:I found this thread
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... 4-s20.html
where pulling the fan sheave is discussed, and Bill Mayo offered this advice which worked for not2shabby:

"I use 2 large flat blade screwdrivers with the tips on each side of the wide part of the fan sheave hub and the motor front plate. I use a hammer on each screwdriver to move the fan sheave out to where I can get a gear puller on the fan sheave. You may have to remove the key before pulling the fan sheave with the gear puller. I use cutter piers to remove the key if it starts to come out with the fan sheave."

If you've already put it back together and it runs, great, but maybe this info will be helpful next time.

If and when you do get the fan sheave removed and the end cap behind it, be careful as the armature will want to slide out, and it may damage the centrifugal switch (if your motor has one like mine) on the end opposite from the fan sheave.

Will try to follow this and see how it goes. Thank You very much guys!

Well guys I got the entire motor assembly apart including the sheaves.
Blew out all of the dust.
Cleaned it all up, re-lubed and cleaned shaft, etc.
Reassembled

Plug it in, same thing.

I seems like the power is just not enough to make it turn fast enough to kick in the centrifugal switch.

I was plugging it into a power cord. My brother suggested going direct to outlet (20 amp fuse)

No go. Still not turning fast enough.

Any suggestions? It is not the centrifugal switch, because it is not even getting to spin fast enough to trip it.


Do I have to get an electrician to run this and convert to 220?

I have a 220 for my dryer, but that is my only 220 in my home.

Also noticed somewhere there was a "cord upgrade" suggested elsewhere. Could this be related?

Thank You!

I am no expert here on SS motors, but I think you have a greater problem, and it is in the motor, not supply or cord, switch, it is in the motor internals, more experienced will chime in b4 the nifgt is ocer I am sure.

ERLover wrote:I am no expert here on SS motors, but I think you have a greater problem, and it is in the motor, not supply or cord, switch, it is in the motor internals, more experienced will chime in b4 the nifgt is ocer I am sure.

I agree, it seems like you have one set of the windings not functioning. If there are no signs of burning it could be as a bad connection to that set of windings. That might be hard to fix depending on the motor.

Have you checked that the start switch is actually making contact with an Ohm meter?

I have not checked the start switch with an OhmMeter. However it powers on just turns slow, could this be in the switch?

The windings look to be in great shape. I have no corrosion or anything such as that internally. Any help testing the switch? Im not an ohm Meter kind of guy hence why I do not own one.

Is there anything special about the switch? I might have another switch laying around for testing.

Quazit wrote:I have not checked the start switch with an OhmMeter. However it powers on just turns slow, could this be in the switch?

The windings look to be in great shape. I have no corrosion or anything such as that internally. Any help testing the switch? Im not an ohm Meter kind of guy hence why I do not own one.

Is there anything special about the switch? I might have another switch laying around for testing.

The centrifugal switch should be closed and make contact to the start winding on start up. At some pre determined speed the switch will open due to centrifugal force and take the start winding out of the circuit.

The switch is probably closed (or maybe not) but if it is not making electrical contact that could be the problem. The other problem could be a bad start capacitor. Less likely but could be the problem.

jsburger wrote:

Quazit wrote:I have not checked the start switch with an OhmMeter. However it powers on just turns slow, could this be in the switch?

The windings look to be in great shape. I have no corrosion or anything such as that internally. Any help testing the switch? Im not an ohm Meter kind of guy hence why I do not own one.

Is there anything special about the switch? I might have another switch laying around for testing.

The centrifugal switch should be closed and make contact to the start winding on start up. At some pre determined speed the switch will open due to centrifugal force and take the start winding out of the circuit.

The switch is probably closed (or maybe not) but if it is not making electrical contact that could be the problem. The other problem could be a bad start capacitor. Less likely but could be the problem.

Thank You. I checked the centrifugal switch. Its is making contact and closed. I also cleaned the contacts. I will check the capacitor as well as the switch tomorrow. I believe there is a link or post somewhere on how to check the capacitor.

I really appreciate all of this assistance. I am very hopeful that it is something simple.

Is it really trying to start, or is it merely 'creeping'.

You need to be looking for burned coils, not for corrosion.

You need an ohmeter* to determine if the contacts are closed 'electrically'.

You will not have an appropriate switch in your position.

Regardless, do not allow power to remain on for more than a second or two if it is not getting up to speed.

* A simple continuity checker will suffice.

Unless originally manufactured to be a dual voltage motor, it is not a simple matter to run it on 230v.

Ignore the capacitor until it has been established the start switch contacts are actually closing(making contact).

JPG wrote:Is it really trying to start, or is it merely 'creeping'.

You need to be looking for burned coils, not for corrosion.

You need an ohmeter* to determine if the contacts are closed 'electrically'.

You will not have an appropriate switch in your position.

Regardless, do not allow power to remain on for more than a second or two if it is not getting up to speed.

* A simple continuity checker will suffice.

Unless originally manufactured to be a dual voltage motor, it is not a simple matter to run it on 230v.

Ignore the capacitor until it has been established the start switch contacts are actually closing(making contact).

A lot to digest..

JPG wrote:Is it trying to start or "creeping"?

Good question. Without a definition, I would say it is "creeping".

JPG wrote:You need to be looking for burnt coils..

I looked at the coils when it was apart, I do not see any burnt coils. The internals look in really good shape.

JPG wrote:You need an ohmeter* to determine if the contacts are closed 'electrically'.

Hmm. I do not currently have an Ohm meter I dont believe I will have to look around and see if I happen to have put one away. I hope I do :S

The Centrifugal Switch: When it is installed the points are in the close position. They are touching (Making contact with one another.). I looked at the points and cleaned them up a bit with some 000 steel wool (Just knocked off any oils dirt etc, no polishing, hard rubbing etc).

I will attempt at running a new 20a Fused line today and one outlet to see if this is my problem as well.