Shopsmith Forums

Update: It is to my satisfaction now that I am using a different measuring system. Only about .001 between front to back at full height and only about .004 at about 3/4" high. By the way, according to Delta, an adjustment of the trunnion tie bars can make the measurement more consistent.

I enjoyed making my dial indicator measuring jig. I used a miter bar that I had laying around, and used a punch to make it fit better in the miter slots. Still has slop of about .004 that I can easily accomodate. I screwed a piece of hardwood in the 2 countersunk holes near the end of the bar (perpendicular to the bar). I then drilled a horizontal hole at both ends (one end is longer than the other so that I can use both miter slots). I used a bolt to attach the dial indicator to either hole with a nut on the other end (not referring to me ) Dial indicator swivels. Worked great.

So I guess my measuring was off when using the cut piece of wood and the combo square method, because I did not have to make any adjustments. I checked with the dial indicator in both miter slots, and I even tried it on another blade.

Later, I will go do a test piece or two to see how it cuts.

Glad to hear it is working out. I read the Delta adjustment years ago and forgot some specifics.
I think if done correctly the alignment and accuracy on the contractor Saw is superior to the unisaw.

Thanks, Ed. I would like it to be accurate as possible. But, sometimes it comes to the point that I don't want to mess with it any more in fear of making it worse. I've never heard that it was possible for a contractors saw to be as accurate as a cabinet saw based on the trunnions mounted to the table as opposed to the base. It's when I try to align my saw that I get the desire to get a cabinet saw. You know, the grass is always greener...