Shopsmith Forums

That is outstanding! I have been lucky as both of the SC'rs I have aquired, have been in good shape. That seems like your solution will work, hope it does!

About that mounting bolt/set screw, I never even use it.

The belts are enough to keep the speed changer in place.
I push, (to the right) on the speed changer, and the
headstock. Pull, (to the left) just on the headstock.

You can use the bolt-long setscrew, without the nut,
or, keep the nut very loose. I'm thinking a 1.5 inch
stud, with 2 nuts jammed against each other, at least
1/2 inch from the speed changer.

steve

""The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can
never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin."

Dick, where did you find that? I thought it was Sir Isaac
Newton, that posted it.

steve

skou wrote:""The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can
never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin."

Dick, where did you find that? I thought it was Sir Isaac
Newton, that posted it.

steve

I have been using that (with different historical people) from my beginnings of the interweb. LOL

George Washington
Lincoln
Newton
Mark Twain

They all work

Ed asked earlier in this thread (about a year ago)

Mine "looks" to be in good condition but I guess now that someone has mentioned it.... how do you know if the bushings are OK or not?

Two points of wear to look for on the bronze sleeves which acts as the bearings on the Floating Pulley Assembly. The first, is there any play between the bearing and the shaft? Caused by wearing down from a lack of lubrication. The second, and more common, is the shoulder worn down? The shoulder is about 3/32" thick and will wear down if the alignment is off. Poor alignment will cause the Floating Pulley Assembly to "push" against the knob or the base of the shaft. A lack of proper lubrication will cause this to wear faster. When the bearings are properly "seated" in the Floating Pulley Shaft there should be no side to side movement between the Knob screwed on and the shaft base but it should turn freely.

I have had 12 Speed Changers (and still have 4) with the Model 10's I have purchased to restore. Most did not need the bearings replaced. One had the shoulder of the bearing completely worn off. Another had the shoulder worn down some. Proper alignment and lubrication will greatly reduce the wear. These Speed Changers are between 64 to 69 years old and as shown with the Model 10's themselves can last a very log time with proper care.

While we are on the topic of Speed Changers does anyone have a guess as to how the one broke as shown in the picture below. It came with a 10ER I purchased.
It had to have been some extreme abuse but I don't know how that could have happened.

chapmanruss wrote: While we are on the topic of Speed Changers does anyone have a guess as to how the one broke as shown in the picture below. It came with a 10ER I purchased.

Broken Speed Changer 2.jpg

It had to have been some extreme abuse but I don't know how that could have happened.

My guess would be that something heavy was dropped on, or hit, the top of the sheaves, that would give leverage to break the casting that way. Is there a dent, flat spot, scar, on the edge of the sheaves that might give a clue?

I guess another possibility could be if someone tried to put it into vertical mode by lifting on the sheaves, but that doesn't seem as likely.

Another thought occurred to me, if the headstock were slid hard to the left, the shock of the knob hitting the tie bar might do it.

Russ, I suspect you probably want to keep this one for parts, but if not there was someone not long ago on the Facebook Shopsmith Owners Group that was looking for a speed changer sheave assembly, as his were missing when purchased. https://www.facebook.com/groups/6844615 ... 321483883/

Thanks Ron,
I do not have any extra "good" parts for the Speed Changer. I was able to buy just a pulley arm for a reasonable price shortly after I bought the 10ER it came with two and a half years ago. That pulley arm and a base bracket that was broken through the middle like yours along with the "arm" for the screw assembly attachment having been broken off from one several years ago are the only broken/non-repaired parts I have had. A Speed Changer with another Model 10 I purchased had the center of the base bracket broken again like yours and a previous owner had purchased a replacement and had the broken one repaired. That gave me an extra base bracket to restore the broken one I had gotten previously. I've been lucky as it comes to the Speed Changers I have received. Of course that is one of the things I look at before deciding to buy one to restore.
Ron your topic here is a good reminder to all using the Speed Changer - If the adjustment screw doesn't turn easily than STOP and find out why before something breaks. Check the "nut" on the set screw that holds it with the headstock to make sure it is not tight.

Russ, you are right, individual speed changer parts are very rare. I too bought a pulley arm on eBay a few years ago just because you see the individual parts so little. As it turned out it was a good buy. One of the two speed changers I have restored so far needed it. It was not broken but as you know the bushings are not available off the shelf. Somewhere along it's life someone had turned the pulley shaft down to fit the bushings they were able to get. It was fully functional as it was but I changed the arm since I had one. I have two more to restore. They are not broken or welded. I have 5 speed changers here and none of them were broken or welded. Four of them came with machines I bought locally. The fifth one came from eBay because the first machine I bought didn't have one.