Shopsmith Forums

HVAC fans usually run around 1050-1075 rpm , they are listed as continuous duty motors, I have some where a belt drive motor I took out of a furnace installed in the 60's/70's , it is still tight , has oilers on top ,,,,, now they use sealed motors with a lubricated pad inside,,,,, no oilers,,,, after a few years the pads dry and shrink ,,the result is no oil to the bearings ,I know the old motors were all ways oily and should have been cleaned at every oiling , but thats what made them the best.

I use to service semi trucks ,years ago I was taught when greasing a bearing you squirted grease into the bearing until it came out clean and wipe off the dirty stuff, now you are taught to give them 1 squirt and no one wipes any thing..

Hobbyman2 wrote:I use to service semi trucks ,years ago I was taught when greasing a bearing you squirted grease into the bearing until it came out clean and wipe off the dirty stuff, now you are taught to give them 1 squirt and no one wipes any thing..

Please correct me if I am wrong. Vehicle wheel bearings were not sealed in any why. We took them out, washed them in solvent and re=packed them with grease. Hardly the same thing as sealed ball bearings that for the most part don't need to be lubricated.

referring to shop eq I ran years ago,,they all had oilers.

It was some thing we checked every time before we used the machine.. most had a oil cup on them that was supposed to be kept 2/3 full,, it kept the dirt dust washed out of the bearings .

Wheel bearings get a build up of sand and dirt,adds friction, friction adds heat, heat expands metal,,, wood dust might not be as abrasive however it bonds and gets caked into the bearings , needle bearing or ball bearing,,, doesnt matter its still in there expanding and doing damage.

Sealed bearings may keep out some dust but from what I have seen they dry up .

Dry bearings add friction , adds heat , expands metal.expanded metal loses tolerances .

jsburger wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:I use to service semi trucks ,years ago I was taught when greasing a bearing you squirted grease into the bearing until it came out clean and wipe off the dirty stuff, now you are taught to give them 1 squirt and no one wipes any thing..

Please correct me if I am wrong. Vehicle wheel bearings were not sealed in any why. We took them out, washed them in solvent and re=packed them with grease. Hardly the same thing as sealed ball bearings that for the most part don't need to be lubricated.

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Now they are sealed with speed sensors .

jsburger wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:I use to service semi trucks ,years ago I was taught when greasing a bearing you squirted grease into the bearing until it came out clean and wipe off the dirty stuff, now you are taught to give them 1 squirt and no one wipes any thing..

Please correct me if I am wrong. Vehicle wheel bearings were not sealed in any why. We took them out, washed them in solvent and re=packed them with grease. Hardly the same thing as sealed ball bearings that for the most part don't need to be lubricated.

It was the drum/rotor assembly, not the bearings themselves that were sealed. Rear seal and a dust cap on the front. They were grease-capable.

Everett

Good picture .


adding bearing buddies helps keep the bearings greased , race's are a pain to split off the spindle.

https://www.detroitaxle.com/shop/hub-be ... gLSH_D_BwE

now most vehicles have some thing like these on front and rear , disc brakes.

No way to grease them like the old style .

For what it's worth, I just placed a document titled "Bearing Comparisons" in My Google Drive (main page) linked from Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More.

Coupled with what Dusty and others have posted, it may help some determine what else they need to consider when buying bearings, for anything, including Shopsmith.

Everett

Thanks Everett. I'll be sure to check it out.