Lathe Center stuck on Morse Taper shaft

[everettdavis]

Obviously those two parts traditionally don't go together functionally in turning as the drive center mounts to the headstock. The Morse Taper normally mounts a drill chuck and bit in the tailstock used for boring.

Someone put them together for some purpose none the less.

I would take Evaporust and put it in my ultrasonic cleaner, and let it work on it a while. If it is rust seized, that will likely break it up.

If that does not work, or appeal to you I would suggest:

If you purchase a 5/8" clamp-on retaining collar and install it on the Morse Taper Shaft with a small gap between it and the Drive Center (see white line), you can use a small bearing separator and the beveled area (toward the Drive Center) to entice it apart as if you were separating a press fit bearing. Tightening the bolts a bit alternating on each side, will create significant force to pull them apart.

This should not damage either part.

Having some of these retaining collars in your arsenal can help a great deal when you have other press fit components you need to pull apart.

Everett

Drive Center Problem.jpeg (213.53 KiB) Viewed 7328 times

clamp collar preferences.png (141.41 KiB) Viewed 7316 times

[everettdavis]

To answer several who have sent me private messages....

If you want one to rotate on the shaft, use thread sealant on the bolts and opt for the more expensive balanced collars like Ruland's.

Everett

shaft-collar-split-balanced.jpg (89.6 KiB) Viewed 7315 times

[ShalomOrchard]

9B2CD7D9-533C-49EF-A1A4-ED4DF373DD5A.jpeg (776.31 KiB) Viewed 7160 times

This is what I have on the Shopsmith drive shaft that I can’t get off.
I’ve tried Envapo-rust; I’ve tried heating the lather center, I’ve tried prying between
The aluminum knurled collar and the lathe center, and can’t get it off!

Any other ideas?

Thanks, Jim

[everettdavis]

Can I see a photo after the evaporust? It would not look like that after evaporust.

You should be able to pull it off with a bearing separator if you grind the center tip flat or use an intermediate socket etc. to span it.

Worst case take a pneumatic cut off wheel and cut the arbor deeply (but not quite deep enough to reach the spindle) on both sides and then use an oversize screwdriver twisting it in the slot you cut.

Don't hammer on it or you will bend the spindle in the quill itself.

Everett

Bearing Separator - Puller.png (229.14 KiB) Viewed 7154 times

[chapmanruss]

Hi Jim,
A picture is worth a thousand words. What you have is a NON-Shopsmith dead center stuck on the spindle. Not being an actual Shopsmith part it's tolerances for a 5/8" shaft may be different. Try using a small bearing separator without the puller like the one Everett is showing. Clamping the halves together may give enough pressure to pop it loose before bottoming out on the spindle shaft. If it bottoms out before moving you could try shimming it with a washer split in half to take up some of the space between the stuck center and the knurled Spindle Knob. Use caution not to apply too much pressure causing damage to the quill. Once you get it off get rid if it as it has no use on a Shopsmith machine.

Something to take note of in identifying Shopsmith Accessories - All spindle accessories use a single set screw to attach to the reverse tapered spindle. If the accessory has other than a 5/8” smooth bore for a spindle shaft attachment or more than one set screw than it is not a Shopsmith part with 1 exception, the 2-1/2” jointer head (part numbers 129-12X & 12 230) has two 1/8” or 5/32” Allen wrench size set screws.

[JPG]

I think he has a Model 10 center. Two smaller set screws were common(as well as third party folks).

Forked wedges might work(no I do not know where to get any) That is how one gets drill chuck tapered arbors removed from the chuck.

I think a long soaking in evaporust might help. Raise to DP position and dunk.

[ShalomOrchard]

I dripped the Envaporust into the set screw holes; it drips out quite readily. I tried to think of some way to plug the cracks up to fill the set screws and inside with Envaporust... Maybe Gorrilla tape?

A Bearing separater might be hard to find in rural Maine, unless NAPA has one; I looked at Advance Auto. Maybe I could use opposing screwdriver tips as wedges to separate it.

I don’t fancy grinding it off; I would expect it to be quite hard, and I’d be afraid of grinding too far!

Thanks, Jim

[JPG]

Let me more fully describe what I mean by 'dunk'.

Raise to vertical(drill press mode), lower the quill/center into a can resting on the main table. pour evaporust into the can and leave for a day or so.

[everettdavis]

You have to soak it submerged in Evaporust. Tilt the unit into drill press mode AFTER LOCKING THE HEADSTOCK if you don't have the quill removed.

Adjust the table for drill press position, and sit a small plastic container or bottle that just fits around the quill assembly, and let the quill rest in a bath of the evaporust sitting on the table overnight.

Wrap the opening a bit with some cling wrap to help cut down on evaporation of the liquid which can be filtered and re-used.

Strain the evaporust through a coffee filter when done and you can reclaim and reuse it.

Evaporust has to work overnight in an immersion, not dripping it in like a penetrating oil. It works on chemical chelation in suspension.

Everett

[ShalomOrchard]

Got it...