Shopsmith Forums

ChrisNeilan wrote:I have the Shopsmith thingamajig. It gets it close, but no cigar. The real villan is/are the bolts the secure the table to the trunions. They like to creap.

Pay attention to which direction the dial creeps when you tighten the bolts. For example, if the dial shows 0.000 before tightening and after tightening you gives you a +.005 creep, readjust the fence with a -.005 compensation before tightening. Then the fence will be very close to 0.000 after you tighten (also tighten the bolts in the same order).

algale wrote:

jsburger wrote:

algale wrote:Those are excellent prices!

Yes they are. I just ordered the deluxe kit. I have the SS gauge and it works great even though there is 'built in slop' in the miter bar. It works perfectly using the SS instructions as chapmanruss stated.

The A-Line-It allows use on both the SS and my Powermatic PM2000 table saws as well as other uses that the SS unit will not allow.

Once I get the A-Line-It and confirm it will work on the SS I am willing to let go of my SS unit for a very reasonable price if anyone is interested. It has very little use and is in the original box.

I have the basic and I find it works very well in the Shopsmith; I hope your results confirm my endorsement.

I am sure it will. I always respect your opinion.

Oh how I want to paddle and portage the Slow Boat!!!

jsburger wrote:
I am sure it will. I always respect your opinion.

Oh how I want to paddle and portage the Slow Boat!!!

Would love to go for a paddle with you! Come east!

algale wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:I have the Shopsmith thingamajig. It gets it close, but no cigar. The real villan is/are the bolts the secure the table to the trunions. They like to creap.

Pay attention to which direction the dial creeps when you tighten the bolts. For example, if the dial shows 0.000 before tightening and after tightening you gives you a +.005 creep, readjust the fence with a -.005 compensation before tightening. Then the fence will be very close to 0.000 after you tighten (also tighten the bolts in the same order).

I also have the Shopsmith thingamajig and do not like it. I have a digital indicator that I like so am trying to make up my mind if I want to just get the Woodpecker or the A-Line-It without the indicator.

I wish there was a way to use the contractor saw PALS listed on the In-Line Industries website with the Shopsmith. Maybe get two sets and use them between the trunnions and the table with the socket bolts. May need longer socket bolts but they should be easy to find. It would stop the creep when tightening.

thunderbirdbat wrote:

algale wrote:

ChrisNeilan wrote:I have the Shopsmith thingamajig. It gets it close, but no cigar. The real villan is/are the bolts the secure the table to the trunions. They like to creap.

Pay attention to which direction the dial creeps when you tighten the bolts. For example, if the dial shows 0.000 before tightening and after tightening you gives you a +.005 creep, readjust the fence with a -.005 compensation before tightening. Then the fence will be very close to 0.000 after you tighten (also tighten the bolts in the same order).

I also have the Shopsmith thingamajig and do not like it. I have a digital indicator that I like so am trying to make up my mind if I want to just get the Woodpecker or the A-Line-It without the indicator.

I wish there was a way to use the contractor saw PALS listed on the In-Line Industries website with the Shopsmith. Maybe get two sets and use them between the trunnions and the table with the socket bolts. May need longer socket bolts but they should be easy to find. It would stop the creep when tightening.

I had the PALS on a contractor saw I no longer own and they definitely worked. I've spent a few hours trying to imagine how to adapt the PALS or something similar to the Shopsmith but the geometry has always stumped me. If you figure it out, please post your solution with pictures!

I disagree with most of this thread. I have the dial indicator from Shopsmith and find that it works very well.

You guys all used to criticize me for striving for extreme precision in a wood shop. I achieved it to my stated goal of +-.005" and now ya'll are working for better.

Shiny new tools/toys are not the solution. Learn to use what you have. This degree of accuracy for Shopsmith alignments (with repeatability) can be achieved with tools as simple as a feeler gauge.

I was not one of those voices, but I remember them!

dusty wrote:I disagree with most of this thread. I have the dial indicator from Shopsmith and find that it works very well.

You guys all used to criticize me for striving for extreme precision in a wood shop. I achieved it to my stated goal of +-.005" and now ya'll are working for better.

Shiny new tools/toys are not the solution. Learn to use what you have. This degree of accuracy for Shopsmith alignments (with repeatability) can be achieved wit tools as simple as a feeler gauge.

Right on Dusty!!! I find the SS gauge works fine. That does not mean I don't want to have the other nice high end tools as Ed says. The Shaper Origin at almost $2000 is one of them. It is here and I can't wait to try it.

I can't answer your question but I'll relate an experience with IGaging. I received one of their tools for Christmas a couple years back. I had an issue with it and wrote the company. Zero response, nada, I'd pick something else.

I like shiny too. So I just might spring for one of those A-Line It tools, if I can get the half-price deal from Peachtree. I signed up for their email specials today after seeing John’s post, but so far they haven’t emailed me that special. And their website still shows the regular price.

But as a practical matter, my home-brew hardwood alignment jig works perfectly. I cut the back side of the “miter bar” square. But the front side is cut on about a 30 degree angle, so gravity shoves the square edge back firmly against the side of the miter slot. There is absolutely no slop, but it still slides freely.