Miter set screw stuck

[Nick]

Great point, Ed. I'm embarrassed that I forgot it. That simple practice really does solve all the problems we've been discussing here.

With all good wishes,

[timster68]

Timster68
I was always taught by Shopsmith to tear a stripe of paper and wrap it around my mitre bar in the area of the screw to shim the bar into place. I thought everyone did this.
Ed

Just a regular sheet of paper? And I assume wrap it around enough times to shim it correctly? One last silly question - do you use tape to hold it on?

Thanks,

Tim

[jmoore65]

This afternoon, I discovered my tap set had 1 NPT tap - the 1/8-27 NPT tap I needed.

So, I was able to clean up the threads to allow the set screw to be flush with the top of the bar and allow the miter gauge to move.

I had to run the tap pretty deep into the hole. In fact, I had to make several runs, each time going a bit deeper. I didn't want to run all the way through and ruin the hole, but it had to go through further than I thought it would.

Regarding the other mini-thread, does a paper shim help reduce set screw lockup?

Jim

[beeg]

Regarding the other mini-thread, how does a paper shim help reduce set screw lockup?

Jim

I don't think it does, it takes up slop. So that when you tighten the screw, the miter bar doesn't move. See post # 14 here.

[Nick]

Solves both problems -- slop and stick.

With all good wishes,

[Ed in Tampa]

Just a regular sheet of paper? And I assume wrap it around enough times to shim it correctly? One last silly question - do you use tape to hold it on?

Thanks,

Tim

Tim
I just tear a stripe of regular paper fold it in a U around the mitre bar and drop the bar into place. I usually use this method on my Cast Iron bandsaw table (using the mitre as my bandsaw fence) so I don't have to worry about the t-nut on the 510/520 mitre bar. No I don't use tape or anything. A single u shaped paper in my slot hold my mitre bar tight then when I give a twist of the tightening screw the bar is locked solid. I tear the extra paper even with the table top and I'm off to work. My screw doesn't get stuck because I don't have to turn it very deep because the paper takes up so much extra space.

I imagine if you wanted you could use a wrap or two of masking tape and accomplish the same thing. I would use the blue tape less glue residue.
Ed
Ed

[charlese]

Sorry to get onto this thread so late, but to get back to the issue of "screw sticking and can't loosen it" - - if the bar will come out of the slot, just insert a large screw driver or two into the slot to spread the bar, then turn out the screw with an allen wrench or if necessary with a vise grip and small wood blocks. Don't have a good fix for a jammed bar! Sorry!

[timster68]

Tim
I just tear a stripe of regular paper fold it in a U around the mitre bar and drop the bar into place. I usually use this method on my Cast Iron bandsaw table (using the mitre as my bandsaw fence) so I don't have to worry about the t-nut on the 510/520 mitre bar. No I don't use tape or anything. A single u shaped paper in my slot hold my mitre bar tight then when I give a twist of the tightening screw the bar is locked solid. I tear the extra paper even with the table top and I'm off to work. My screw doesn't get stuck because I don't have to turn it very deep because the paper takes up so much extra space.

I imagine if you wanted you could use a wrap or two of masking tape and accomplish the same thing. I would use the blue tape less glue residue.
Ed
Ed

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

[allsas]

Taper screw was acting up and had been lubricated wth wax but it still was very difficult to loosen (two setups ago). Then, it was lubricated with Graphite, now its rounding the edges on the 5/32 hex key stock, counter clockwise turn.

Questions from postings:

? Will a screw driver on the miter guage taper screw slot help me loosen the taper screw?

? Whats the correct lubrication for the taper screw? Anti Seize Compound, wax, graphite. ...

? Is the taper screw directional, one side should go in first? How can you tell which side?


I'll try, soaking in penetrating oil. wedge pressure in the slot, and a good allen wrench.

The last crank on the taper screw was NEEDED to hold the miter guage in one place. It held for the horizontal boring operation, but stripped the hex wrench when the boring was done and I wanted to go back to disk sanding.

[SDSSmith]

Taper screw was acting up and had been lubricated wth wax but it still was very difficult to loosen (two setups ago). Then, it was lubricated with Graphite, now its rounding the edges on the 5/32 hex key stock, counter clockwise turn.

Questions from postings:

? Will a screw driver on the miter guage taper screw slot help me loosen the taper screw?

? Whats the correct lubrication for the taper screw? Anti Seize Compound, wax, graphite. ...

? Is the taper screw directional, one side should go in first? How can you tell which side?


I'll try, soaking in penetrating oil. wedge pressure in the slot, and a good allen wrench.

The last crank on the taper screw was NEEDED to hold the miter guage in one place. It held for the horizontal boring operation, but stripped the hex wrench when the boring was done and I wanted to go back to disk sanding.

The tapered screw is directional, you should be able to see the taper. Small side goes into the top of the miter bar. You can use paper wrapped around the miter bar so you don't have to crank down so hard on that tapered screw to lock the miter gauge. I suspect now you have experinced some galling of the threads. When you get the screw out I would clean it up and re-lubricate it.