Shopsmith Forums

Ron, Curious about that middle plug in the outlet strip in your first picture. Is that just the way the picture is taken or is there an ac cable plugged into an outlet with only an half inch or so of cable sticking out, unterminated? I am sure it's an optical illusion.

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WileyCoyote wrote:Ron, Curious about that middle plug in the outlet strip in your first picture. Is that just the way the picture is taken or is there an ac cable plugged into an outlet with only an half inch or so of cable sticking out, unterminated? I am sure it's an optical illusion.

Yes it is an illusion. The cord curves back down directly behind the up part in the photo and goes to the desk lamp that lights that end of the 10ER.

Chriss wrote:

everettdavis wrote:Since the 10E/10ER have exposed wiring, I would use a segment of the extension cord up and back, and switch both sides, cutting the ground at the switch and heat shrink the wires breaking out at both ends. The motor mount bars will ground the case and you can more easily remove, service the motor or replace the bearings later without disturbing the wiring. Every wire that goes to the motor would be part of that new extension cord.

Hmm... You lost me on that. I'm not quite following what your are trying to explain. Anny chance you can make a diagram of what you are explaining? My wiring currently runs directly to the switch, then from the switch to the motor. That is basically what jsburger said he does, breaking the ground out at the switch and taking it down to the motor mount. I think you are explaining something different, I'm just not following.

Chris

I am sorry I was out of town and did not read this til now. Indeed there are two cords one coming in from wall, through the switch and back down through leads to the motor.

I butt connect the ground wires with an insulated butt connector, and then I break out the wires installing 'insulated' spade lugs or ring lugs as needed for the application.

I take a piece of heat shrink and encapsulate a small portion of the two cables (power and motor) and the ground butt connector up inside the headstock on 10E / 10ER models. Maybe 3" total heat shrink if that.

I put together a general purpose wiring diagram for others who may need a visual, with a note about later models.

Everett

A "butt connector"(inline splice) is not a good idea. The power cord grounding wire needs to be direct to the grounding point, AND the longest lead from the power cord(so as to ALWAYS be the last to pull loose if the cord is yanked off).

Neutral inline splice is ok.

It is the longest wire and is encapsulated with the butt connection in the heat shrink. Some times I do a western union strain relieved soldered wire splice, also encapsulated in a smaller heat shrink.

I’ve not had a problem with it and on early machines without grounding it adds the ground. I agree a separate strain relief is needed as well.

It may not be ideal, but it is present. How would you build it with a heavy duty extension cord for one? I am always trying to improve and learn.

Everett

OK!

This is not about just getting it successfully functional, but rather taking into consideration worst case possible fault events.

So where does one terminate the power cord ground wire. Somewhere where the outer surface will ALLWAYS be connected. Since the power cord goes directly to the power switch whatever contains it must be grounded. In the case of the model 10, that is the headstock. There are no holes available in the headstock, so one must be created. I would make that a tapped hole. I would locate it near the power switch thus making the ground wire longest a simple matter.

Ok now for the connection to the motor. A grounding jumper needs to connect the grounded headstock to the motor CASE. The jumper wire is necessary since it is POSSIBLE for the mechanical connecting parts to NOT provide low resistance3 connection to the headstock.(Remember this is worst case possibility) The three conductor cord may be used for the grounding jumper. The best place to terminate the headstock end is under the SAME screw as the incoming power cord ground wire. The location on the motor can be anything on the case, BUT, it is best if it is the only purpose for the screw(nothing else uses the screw). However practically allows using screws that serve another purpose. Drilling and tapping holes in the motor case has it's own caveats.

The reason for grounding the headstock first is that the switch is mounted there and the headstock is what an operator will be touching.

When terminating the grounding conductor, external tooth lock washers should be used. One needs to be between the terminal and the grounded surface(headstock/motor case). A second should be between the terminal and the screw head. IF two wires are under one screw, an additional external tooth lock washer should be between the two terminals.

All cords should be strain relieved. Passing them through the motor mount bracket is acceptable as long as the outer jacket is not compromised.

Not the simplest way, but it prevents those rainy unforeseen flukes that can cause unforeseen conditions and allow the outer case to become "hot".

Sure this is more than thee sought! It is however how I would(am) doing it.

P.S. The ground wire's termination MUST be a ring(full circle) terminal.

That is exactly the kind of answer that has made you one of my trusted mentors.

Thanks once again!

Everett

So with those considerations, let's look at FIG 4 Revised with JPG's and John's comments illustrated

Everett

everettdavis wrote:So with those considerations, let's look at FIG 4 Revised with JPG's and John's comments illustrated

Everett

Fig 04 with grounds added.png

I neglected to mention that the ground wire terminals MUST be a solid ring(not spade etc.).


Kudos on the illustration!!!