Shopsmith Forums

jdramsey wrote:I went to Rick Davis' Traveling Academy a couple of years ago. He was honest enough to say that he didn't like the overarm router system. I've only used a router table.

Although I respect Rick Davis' woodworking abilities and opinions, his is a personal opinion. There are plenty of other woodworkers that do like the overarm router system. After seeing what it can do, it is definetly on my want list.

a1gutterman wrote:Although I respect Rick Davis' woodworking abilities and opinions, his is a personal opinion. There are plenty of other woodworkers that do like the overarm router system. After seeing what it can do, it is definetly on my want list.

I respect Rick's opinion as well. However, what do you typically use the router for and what projects would you plan on the OPR that can not be done with a standard router table.

Picture please, if you have them, Tim.

Remember, the OPR can also be used in the horizontal position, this increases its usefulness.
It also creates hazards if you're not prepared and cautious.

I bought the OPR and I've never used a router table. I was always free handing the routers for edge and channel operations only.

I think I should have started with the router table. (as Rick suggested to me when I asked him for his opinion)
The OPR is versatile, but a bit intimidating for a novice like myself. It will take me years to come close to using it to its abilities.
I'd suggest the pro fence router table if your willing to spend the money for the OPR. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rtable.htm
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rtable.htm
Check the videos on the OPR page of the online accessory catalog and it will help you make up your mind.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... _Intro.htm
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... router.htm

I really like my pro fence and router table setup but if I had it to do all over again - I would be looking for a better router table. I already see evidence that my table is losing its' flatness. I have a "slight" low spot around the insert which I believe is from the weight of the router.

If I am going to leave the table set up, I remove the router and insert (ie, I don't leave the router hanging in the table when I am not using it).

That was one of the reasons I went with the OPR, "Sag". I've been reading that many router tables, from many manufacturers have had the sag problem.
I notice the newer tables like Kreg's mount supports under the table to help with the sag issue.
Are there any router tables that have proven resistant to sagging, other than the cast iron models?

Speaking of sag, if you look closely at the first couple pictures, I have noticed the router insert sits down below the table about 1/8" or maybe more. Is there some type of shim that would need to be used to level this with the table? I would think since both are made by Jointech, they would have a bit better fit than that.

matpoh wrote:Speaking of sag, if you look closely at the first couple pictures, I have noticed the router insert sits down below the table about 1/8" or maybe more. Is there some type of shim that would need to be used to level this with the table? I would think since both are made by Jointech, they would have a bit better fit than that.

I think I see the "lip" (my words) that you question. If that really is a lip and not an optical allusion, I guarantee it is due to the fact that the insert has not be adjusted after being inserted into the table. I have used that system and the transition from table to insert can be made "virtually seamless".

The same can be said for the Shopsmith table and the Woodhaven insert. I believe both, if I recall the Jointech correctly, adjust to eliminate that transition in about the same fashion.

I believe the "sag" is a by product of a table made from MDF and is probably affected by humidity as well as the weight of the router. I have seen recommendations to treat all of the exposed surfaces of the MDF to reduce the effect of moisture on the table - this might be a wise tactic. It can't hurt.

I'm going to spend some time just staring at the table while mounted on the Mark V hoping to see a way that the weight factor can be offset (some sort of bracing).

Note the photos in my personal profile - there hangs the router. It's been that way for over a week.

Dusty said:

I believe the "sag" is a by product of a table made from MDF and is probably affected by humidity as well as the weight of the router. I have seen recommendations to treat all of the exposed surfaces of the MDF to reduce the effect of moisture on the table - this might be a wise tactic. It can't hurt.

My table top is made of 2 - 3/4" sheets of MDF glued together, covered with formica, top and bottom and edged with 3/4" strips of solid wood. For two years its had a big honking Triton mounted underneath and it hasn't shown any signs of sagging yet.
I agree that some type of bracing would help with the sag problem.

dusty wrote: I believe the "sag" is a by product of a table made from MDF and is probably affected by humidity as well as the weight of the router. I have seen recommendations to treat all of the exposed surfaces of the MDF to reduce the effect of moisture on the table - this might be a wise tactic. It can't hurt.
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Dusty, you might consider a variation of a "Mr. Sawdust" table. These are for the DeWalt RASaws. They are made with 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF with 3 1/8"x3/4" steel bars glued on edge between the 2 sheets. These bars run the length from side to side. They are glued in with slow set epoxy and the 2 pcs. of MDF are glued together with white glue. Clamp down on a FLAT surface with a HEAVY weight on top and you should have a flat table that will not deflect.

You could do a variation with 2 steel bars (one on each side of the router cutout). Coat all over with a couple of coats of wipe on poly.

Dick

The more you guys talk about router tables and sag the happier I'm with my converted 510 main table conversion, that I made into a router table.

I wonder why no one has made a torsion box type table top for their router table. I would think making a 2 or three inch thick torsion box from 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply or mdf would solve the problem completely.

I also think a simply honeycomb type arrangement under most router table tops would prevent them from sagging. Have four longitudinal pieces supportting the table top with a few horizontal piece in between to keep the long pieces in place.

As for the decision which to sale, I would have to know the answer to a few questions. What do you intend to use your SS for? I also understand that change overs with the jointech installed is more complicated is this going to be a problem to you? Last question what type of work do you normally do? Is it construction grade, furniture grade, fine furniture grade or exhibition grade?

Ed