Shopsmith Forums

That looks like the original power cord, switch and motor. Being that old I would recommend replacing the power cord with a new one that includes a ground. The ground can be attached to the motor thereby grounding the entire unit. You may consider replacing the switch while you have everything apart and avoid having to replace it later in the middle of a project. As long as the motor work fine clean it out and lubricate the pulley sheave shaft with several drops of lightweight oil. There should be a small hole in the end of the sheave under the spring. If it doesn't have an oil hole separate the sheaves and put drops of oil directly on the shaft as recommended in the Owner's Manual for your Mark 5. It is hard to do by hand but pull the sheave out several times to distribute the oil. The same should be done for the Idler Shaft Pulley.

Buy a #12 extension cord and cut the socket end off and add ring terminals.

lol...just returned from Lowes with a replacement power cord and switch. None of the switches had a common connection. If I am not mistaken, the common from the motor and the one from the power cord can be connected and only the live wire from each connect to the switch...

As long as "common" means neutral, then yes.

BTW... getting the motor out was a serious PITA. Because of the switch. The switch block would not just pop out after taking off the retainer nut because it was too big to push straight back past the quill and the cords were too tight to it to allow me to swivel it much. The new switches are much smaller and should not be a problem. But I am going to put in a couple electrical connectors closer to the motor so future servicing won't require the removal of the switch.

Good move!

I have a little crud to clear out...but for having sat unused since the '80s, according to the seller, not to bad...

Cleaner than mine was! I should have taken pics

ScotSunnergren wrote: ↑Fri Oct 15, 2021 2:10 pm BTW... getting the motor out was a serious PITA. Because of the switch. The switch block would not just pop out after taking off the retainer nut because it was too big to push straight back past the quill and the cords were too tight to it to allow me to swivel it much. The new switches are much smaller and should not be a problem. But I am going to put in a couple electrical connectors closer to the motor so future servicing won't require the removal of the switch.

I think instructions I read on this task recommend extending the quill and locking it there to give you more room to access the back of the switch. Or it’s easy enough to remove the quill.

ScotSunnergren wrote: ↑Fri Oct 15, 2021 3:32 pm I have a little crud to clear out...but for having sat unused since the '80s, according to the seller, not to bad..

PXL_20211015_185329120x.jpg

From the pic, it appears you have a failed button bearing or attaching hardware (or both). The button bearing is at the control-end of the control sheave, and that wire around the speed control quadrant is in the wrong position by a lot. The pic is not the best view for this, but I'm pretty sure you have a problem in this area. It is not uncommon. Solution depends a bit on the magnitude of damage, primarily whether the control sheave can be rebuilt with a new button bearing or not. The good news is that the control sheave is essentially unchanged from then 'til now.

- David