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Quadrant gear wear

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:44 pm
by JPG
dknapp1 wrote:I was going to replace the sheave today, and looked at the pork chop itself - someone mentioned making sure it was lubed properly. ...

Is that acceptable wear, or should I replace the pork chop and make my life easier in the long run?

Thanks! ...

dbk
The question is not what it LOOKS like, the question is how smoothly does it work? If it does not have any binds while rotating the control shaft back and forth through its range is should work OK. Be sure to apply some resistance to pork chop motion while doing this.

WHAT pix was taken from ABOVE control sheave from INSIDE headstock? I am not sure what you mean either DUSTY! .:)

P.S. Bill's response below is a better LONG term action. Notice he is referring to the alignment of the quadrant ARM to the control sheave BUTTON, not the wormgear. jpg

Quadrant

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:15 pm
by billmayo
The quadrant (porkchop) should be centered on the control sheave button. The 2nd picture where the retaining loop is missing shows that you have a problem with the speed control assembly. Later pictures shows the quadrant centered on the control sheave button with the retaining loop.

I would replace the quadrant that is shown. Shopsmith had the quadrants in stock last week as I received the ones I ordered. I try to recondition the teeth on most quadrants and bend the legs of the speed control assembly so the worm gear contacts the non-worn part of the quadrant teeth. I replace the speed control assembly roll pin with a #10 allen head bolt and self-locking nut to prevent the legs from spreading apart. I do this modification to some of my headstock rebuild jobs with good results over the past couple years.

Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:53 pm
by Bruce
So, how do you remove the roll pin from the quadrant assembly? Can it just be driven out with a punch? I don't want to break the "legs". They seem to be cast and fragile.

Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:39 am
by mikelst
Yes, Use a punch or make one from suitable material (some have successfully used nails with the tip removed) and drive the roll pin out. I've tapped a couple out fairly easily.

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:20 am
by Bruce
Well, I clamped the whole assembly in a vise and tried driving the pin out. If I didn't know better I would say the pin is part of the center section. It does not want to budge. Do you think heating it with a heat gun would help break it loose? Would heating it damage it in any way, like ruin the temper of the metal?

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:32 am
by billmayo
Bruce wrote:Well, I clamped the whole assembly in a vise and tried driving the pin out. If I didn't know better I would say the pin is part of the center section. It does not want to budge. Do you think heating it with a heat gun would help break it loose? Would heating it damage it in any way, like ruin the temper of the metal?
I use a pin punch to remove the quadrant roll pin. I would not heat any part of the speed control assembly. The bracket is an aluminum alloy that acts like pot metal when heated. I replace the quadrant roll pin with a bolt, star washers and a nylock nut to keep the one leg from bending. Contact me off-line for pictures and information on this fix. Thanks.

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:38 am
by JPG
Bruce wrote:Well, I clamped the whole assembly in a vise and tried driving the pin out. If I didn't know better I would say the pin is part of the center section. It does not want to budge. Do you think heating it with a heat gun would help break it loose? Would heating it damage it in any way, like ruin the temper of the metal?

There is more of the pin in the center 'section' therefore it exerts more holding 'power'. Try driving it out from both sides until it starts to move. Make sure the 'center section' is tight against the opposite side when driving so it doesn't move. Try placing the pin over the top of the vise with the jaws opened just wide enough to clear the pin. Then strike firmly with a hammer in a direction parallel to the pin/bore. Be careful to not ding the pin. They can be stubborn!!! They come out easier once they move.

Did you apply any penetrates first??

Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 1:14 pm
by Bruce
I replaced the roll pin with a bolt and nut like Bill does, but now I can't get the assembly through the opening to install it. I know Bill is recovering from surgery, so he may not see this for a while. Does anyone else use a bolt and if so how did you get the speed control installed? I am hesitant to enlarge the opening.

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 3:00 pm
by JPG
Bruce wrote:I replaced the roll pin with a bolt and nut like Bill does, but now I can't get the assembly through the opening to install it. I know Bill is recovering from surgery, so he may not see this for a while. Does anyone else use a bolt and if so how did you get the speed control installed? I am hesitant to enlarge the opening.
If you run the pork chop off the wormgear so that it will hinge away from the gear, it becomes a longer skinnier thing to insert into the hole. The porkchop can be run back onto the porkchop after it is through the hole.

Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:19 am
by Bruce
Thanks, I hadn't thought about trying that.